Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824Denham, Dixon
History
Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824
Denham, Dixon
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa, North
June 29.—The Dugganah chief, Tahr, came to my tent to-day, attended
by about twenty people, who all sat down behind him bareheaded, while
he had on a dark blue cotton cap. He had a fine, serious, expressive
countenance, large features, and a long bushy beard: these are the
particular characteristics of these Shouaas—they differ from the
Shouaas to the west, who have mixed more with the natives. Tahr might
have sat for the picture of one of the patriarchs; and an able artist
would have produced a beautiful head from such a study. Their mode
of salutation is by closing their hands gently several times—as
we applaud—and then extending the palms of both flat towards you,
exclaiming, “_L’affia?_—Are you well and happy?”
Tahr, with his followers, after looking at me with an earnestness
that was distressing to me for a considerable time, at last gained
confidence enough to ask some questions, commencing, as usual,
with “What brought you here? they say your country is a moon from
Tripoli.” I replied, “to see by whom the country was inhabited;
and whether it had lakes, and rivers, and mountains like our own.”
“And have you been three years from your home? Are not your eyes
dimmed with straining to the north, where all your thoughts must
ever be? Oh! you are men, men, indeed! Why, if my eyes do not see
the wife and children of my heart for ten days, when they should be
closed in sleep they are flowing with tears.”
I had bought a sheep for a dollar, a coin with which he was not
conversant; and he asked if it was true that they came out of the
earth? The explanation pleased him. “You are not Jews?” said
he. “No,” said I. “Christians, then?” “Even so,” replied
I. “I have read of you: you are better than Jews,” said he. “Are
Jews white, like you?” “No,” replied I; “rather more like
yourself, very dark.” “Really;” said the sheikh: “Why, are
they not quite white? They are a bad people.” After staying a full
hour, he took my hand, and said, “I see you are a sultan: I never
saw any body like you. The sight of you is as pleasing to my eyes,
as your words are to my ear. My heart says you are my friend. May you
die at your own tents, and in the arms of your wives and family.”
“Amen,” said I; and they all took their leave.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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