Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824Denham, Dixon
History
Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824
Denham, Dixon
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa, North
Completely fatigued, we returned to the village of Chirgoa, near
which our tents were pitched: this was a most distressing day, and
we had been on our horses nearly thirteen hours. Garouah is twelve
miles from Zogany, and Mabah twenty. We were some way in advance of
the latter, but to Kuskoua I could not induce my guide to venture;
and so many proofs had I seen, not only of his bravery, but his
desire to satisfy my curiosity, that I could not doubt his fears
were just. Notwithstanding our fatigue, no rest could we obtain, and
another night was passed in a state of suffering and distress that
defies description: the buzz from the insects was like the singing
of birds; the men and horses groaned with anguish; we absolutely
could not eat our paste and fat, from the agony we experienced in
uncovering our heads. We at last hit upon an expedient that gave us
a little relief: as they came at intervals, in swarms, we thought
they might also be driven off in the same quantities; and we found,
by occasionally lighting a line of fires with wet grass, to windward
of our tents, that the smoke carried off millions, and left us a
little at ease. I do not think our animals could have borne such
another night; their legs and necks were covered with blood, and
they could scarcely stand, from the state of irritation in which
they had been kept for so many hours.
On Friday we returned to Lari by the lower road, where there are
frequent large detached pieces of water, strongly impregnated with
trona. On the road, to-day, we fell in with a tribe of the Biddomah,
who had, during the last three months, taken up their abode on the
sheikh’s land, and asked for what was instantly granted them,
permission to remain. Internal wars cause these fallings off of
one tribe from another, which the sheikh encourages: only one of
their chiefs could ever be induced to proceed so far as Kouka. The
sheikh takes no notice, and suffers them to do as they please: he
sent them tobes, and a fighi, and desired they would learn to pray:
and they are now beginning, as my guide said, to have the fear of
God. They were the most savage beings I had seen in the shape of men,
except the Musgowy; and we had sat some time under a tree before they
would come near us. The men, until they are married, wear their hair,
and collect as many beads and ornaments as they can, which they wear
round their necks; their hair is long and plaited, or twisted in
knots; they have ear-rings also: and this collection of beads and
metal is always given to the wife on their marriage. The upper part
of the face is very flat, and the eye sunk; they have large mouths,
and long necks; a sulky, reserved look about them, any thing but
agreeable: they have no style of salutation like other negroes, who
greet strangers over and over again, sitting down by them:—these
stand up, leaning on a spear, and look steadfastly at you without
speaking. I gave a little boy some white beads, which were directly
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