Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824Denham, Dixon
History
Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824
Denham, Dixon
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa, North
A Tibboo trader, who was returning to his own country from Fezzan,
gave me a gratifying proof of the confidence he was willing to place
in the word of an Englishman. It was nearly night, and I was in
front of the camels: he had dates to sell, and mine were expended,
but I told him that my money was in my trunk, and that my camels
were too tired for me to unload them: “God bless you!” said he,
“why, I wish you would buy all I have, camels and all: I know
who the English are! Are they not almost Mislem, and people of one
word? Measure the dates, and go on:—pay the kaid at Mourzuk.”
We here voraciously bought up a few bad onions, to give a little
flavour to our insipid meal of flour and water; and soon after, the
kaid brought me a sheep, the only one in the town, which we cut up
and divided, so that we had a sumptuous meal about nine o’clock
in the evening.
On Sunday the 14th of November, by easy journeys we reached Gatrone,
which, before so miserable in our eyes, now really seemed a little
Paradise; and the food which the old hadge who governs there sent us,
of the same kind we before thought so unpalatable on our outward
voyage, now seemed delicious. I literally got up at daylight to
feast on a mess of hot broth and fresh bread, most highly peppered,
and made as good a meal as ever I did in my life.
At Gatrone, as well as at Tegerhy, our tents were pitched in a palm
grove, the trees shading us during the day from the sun-beams, and
at night from the easterly winds: the gentle moaning of the breeze
through its slowly-waving branches was to us a most pleasing novelty;
and the noble, nutritious, and productive palm, seemed in our eyes
fully to merit the beautiful lines of Abulfeda:
“The stately date, whose pliant head, crowned with pendent clusters,
languidly reclines like that of a beautiful woman overcome with
sleep.”—_Abulfeda Descr. Egypt, a Michaelis_, p. 6.
To do them justice, the Fezzan people seemed as glad we were come
back, as we were ourselves. “To go and come back from the black
country! Oh, wonderful!—you English have large hearts!—God bless
you!—the poor doctor to die too, so far from home!—Health to
your head! it was written he was to die, and you to come back.—God
is great!—and the young Rais Ali too! (Mr. Toole)—Ah! that was
written also:—but he was a nice man—so sweet spoken. Now you are
going home: well, good fortune attend you! How all your friends will
come out to meet you with fine clothes—and how much gunpowder they
will fire away!”
At the mosque of Sidi Bouchier the usual prayer was offered for
our safe arrival in our own country; and on the 21st of November,
Sunday, we made our entry into Mourzuk, and took possession of our
old habitation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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