Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824Denham, Dixon
History
Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824
Denham, Dixon
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa, North
shallow banks are observable in many places. On making inquiry,
I found the quantity of trona has not sensibly diminished for the
last ten years. Perhaps it may appear so from there always being
sufficient to answer every demand. The quantity annually carried
away amounts to between 400 and 500 camel loads, each amounting
to about 4 cwt.,—a large quantity, when the size of the lake is
taken into account. It is only removed from the lake when a demand
comes. A man goes in, breaks it off in large pieces, and those on
the banks remove the extraneous matter, and pack it in large square
bundles, and bind it up with the retecious substance observable on
the roots of the leaves of the date tree, and, bound up in that way,
it is taken to the different places,—the greatest to Tripoli,
but a considerable quantity is consumed in Fezzan. The price of
each load here is two dollars. The water in the valley is good, and
very free from saline impregnation. The whole is taken care of by an
old black Fezzaneer, Hadje Ali, an unassuming but sensible man. He
treated us with every kindness, and showed the greatest readiness
to give us every information. He resides here the whole year, and
only comes up to Mourzuk occasionally to settle money affairs. When
we asked him if he felt his residence solitary, he answered, he
was now an old man, and he gained a comfortable livelihood by it,
which he could not elsewhere. He possesses great energy; and in his
younger years few could cope with him. Since his charge of this place,
which is about nine years, it happened Mukni wished more money. He
told him decidedly he would give him no more, on which Mukni began
to bluster in his usual manner. The old man quietly took up his
staff and walked off. The matter was soon settled in the Hadje’s
favour; for he is, as our relators informed us, of only one speech;
and Mukni, although he speaks harshly, has a good heart. The worms,
so much used in Fezzan, are found in this lake in the spring. About
twenty camels of the Waled Busafe were waiting for their loads.
Clapperton was sitting on the top of a high sand hill, and so pleased
with the view, that he called out several times for me to dismount
from my camel to enjoy the treat. The appearance was beautiful. A deep
sandy valley, without vegetation, and containing only two large groves
of date trees; within each a fine lake was enclosed. The contrast
between the bare lofty sand hills, and the two insulated spots, was
the great cause of the sensation of beauty. There is something pretty
in a lake surrounded with date palms; but when every other object
within the sphere of vision is dreary, the scene becomes doubly so.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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