Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824Denham, Dixon
History
Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824
Denham, Dixon
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa, North
Jan. 8[15].—Our course was still under the range of hills, and at
five miles distance we came to another town called Alighi, and two
miles beyond that another called Tukumani: these towns were built
to the south of, and sheltered by slight projections from, the hills
under which they were placed. The people always came out to meet us,
and when within about fifty paces of the horses, fell on their knees
singing and beating a sort of drum, which always accompanies their
rejoicing. To the west of both these towns is a salt lake resembling
the one near Ashenumma, but rather smaller. We proceeded from hence
nearly south-west, leaving the hills, and while resting under the
shade of some gourd trees, which are here abundant, we had the
agreeable, and to us very novel, sight of a drove of oxen: the bare
idea of once more being in a country that afforded beef and pasture
was consoling in the extreme, and the luxurious thought of fresh milk,
wholesome food, and plenty, was most exhilarating to us all. At two
we came to a halt at Dirkee. A good deal of powder was here expended
in honour of the sultan, who again met us on our approach: his new
scarlet bornouse was thrown over a filthy checked shirt, and his
turban and cap, though once white, were rapidly approaching to the
colour of the head they covered; when, however, the next morning his
majesty condescended to ask me for a small piece of soap, these little
negligences in his outward appearance were more easily accounted for.
We had rather a numerous assembly of females, who danced for some
hours before the tents: some of their movements were not inelegant,
and not unlike the Greek dances as they are represented. The sultan
regaled us with cheese, and ground nuts from Soudan, the former of
a pleasant flavour, but so hard that we were obliged to moisten it
with water previous to eating. Dirkee is of a different description
from the Tibboo towns we had seen: it stands in a wadey, is a mile
in circumference, and it has two trona lakes, one to the east, and
the other to the west. Of this saline substance an account will be
found in the Appendix.—It is generally supposed that these lakes
were originally caused by taking from the spot they now occupy the
earth which was required for building the town, and its surrounding
walls. Water, as we have before observed, is found in many parts of
this country, at the depth of from six inches to six feet, and the
soil near the surface, particularly in the neighbourhood of these
Tibboo towns, is very powerfully impregnated by saline substances; so
much so, that incrustations of pure, or nearly pure, trona are found
sometimes extending several miles. The borders of these lakes have
the same appearance: they are composed of a black mud, which almost
as soon as exposed to the sun and air becomes crisp like fresh dug
earth in a frosty morning. In the centre of each of these lakes is a
solid body or island of trona, which the inhabitants say increases in
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