Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824Denham, Dixon
History
Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824
Denham, Dixon
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa, North
Jan. 16.—Our road lay over loose hills of fine sand, in which
the camels sank nearly knee-deep. In passing these desert wilds,
where hills disappear in a single night by the drifting of the
sand, and where all traces of the passage, even of a large kafila,
sometimes vanish in a few hours, the Tibboos have certain points in
the dark sandstone ridges, which from time to time raise their heads
in the midst of this dry ocean of sand, and form the only variety,
and by them they steer their course. From one of these landmarks
we waded through sand formed into hills from twenty to sixty feet
in height, with nearly perpendicular sides, the camels blundering
and falling with their heavy loads. The greatest care is taken by
the drivers in descending these banks: the Arabs hang with all their
weight on the animal’s tail, by which means they steady him in his
descent. Without this precaution the camel generally falls forward,
and, of course, all he carries goes over his head. We halted at
Kaflorum (where the kafila stops), which is a nest of hills of coarse,
dark sandstone: an irregular peak to the east is called Gusser,
or the castle. At the end of these hills, about two miles from the
road, lies a wadey called Zow Seghrir, in which grows the suag tree,
and also grass. Our course was south; but we were obliged to wind
round the different sand hills in order to avoid the rapid descents,
which were so distressing to the camels. We bivouacked under a head
called Zow (the Difficult), to the east, where we found several wells.
Jan. 18.—The sand hills were less high to-day, but the animals
sank so deep, that it was a tedious day for all. Four camels of Boo
Khaloom’s gave in; two were killed by the Arabs, and two were left
to the chance of coming up before morning. Tremendously dreary are
these marches: as far as the eye can reach, billows of sand bound
the prospect. On seeing the solitary foot passenger of the kafila,
with his water-flask in his hand, and bag of zumeeta on his head,
sink at a distance beneath the slope of one of these, as he plods
his way alone, hoping to gain a few paces in his long day’s work,
by not following the track of the camels, one trembles for his
safety:—the obstacle passed which concealed him from the view,
the eye is strained towards the spot in order to be assured that he
has not been buried quick in the treacherous overwhelming sand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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