Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
I once played Jeríd at the foot of this mountain, when I fell from
the horse, and in falling said to myself, “Where art thou now,
saddle-mountain (Egerlítág)?” Having recovered my senses I mounted
another horse, and galloping full speed towards the mountain, I
ascended it. I saw on the top a large tomb, on which I first said a
fátihah, and having measured it by my steps, I found it eighty paces
in length, with two columns, which marked the situation of the head
and the feet. I was looking on the tomb, when a bad smell arose, very
disagreeable both to me and my servants, who held the horses; I looked
on the grave, and saw that the earth within it, being black and greasy,
was boiling like gruel in a pan. I then returned, and having related
my adventure in the Páshá’s company in the evening, Ja’afer Efendi of
Erzerúm, a learned and elegant writer, warned me not to visit this
place any more, because it was the grave of Balaam, the son of Baúr,
who had died an Infidel by the curse of Moses, and whose grave was
now boiling, both in winter and summer, by subterraneous fire. At the
foot of the same mountain, Abd-ur-rahman Ghází, the standard-bearer
of the prophet, lies buried. One day I ascended from the south side
of the convent about two thousand paces, when I saw on the second
top of this bifurcate mountain a tremendous dragon turned into black
stone. It measured seven hundred and seventy paces from the head to
the tail, the head looks to the field of Erzerúm, the tail to the
castle of Meláz Kerd. If snow falls on the mountains, the figure of
this black dragon is easily distinguished from the windows of the
Páshá’s palace; the circumference of its body is two hundred paces,
each of its four feet is as large as ten men put together, and its
tail is raised like a minareh. It remained whole until the reign of
Selím I. when it was broken by an earthquake, so that its fragments now
lay scattered about. The head was then split asunder, and one of the
eye-balls rolled down on the south side towards Melázguerd, where it
lies on the plain like a cupola; the left eye-ball of the same size,
yet remains in the petrified head, and is seen very distinctly with its
ears, tongue, nose, and mouth every time it snows, because no snow will
remain on this black stone, but melts away, and renders more prominent
the black colour of it. In winter the stone becomes hot, and emits
vapour; in summer it is cold, and exhales a pleasant odour. The legend
reports that this most tremendous dragon was changed into stone by the
Prophet’s standard-bearer, when it came to swallow up the inhabitants
of Erzerúm as food for its young, who were shut up in a cave of Mount
Siján, on the borders of the lake Ván.
_Pilgrimages; Tomb of Sheikh Kárzúní._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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