Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
It is situated on the northern side of the field of Pássin, on an
isolated high cliff, so high, that to look down from the side of the
hot-bath makes the head giddy. Inside there is nobody but the Imám,
the Múezzin, and the Dizdár, or commander. Horses and asses cannot
get up to this place. There is a small Koshk built for Murad IV. by
our protector Melek Ahmed Páshá, who, at the time of the expedition
to Eriván, was the imperial sword-bearer, having succeeded the former
sword-bearer, who was removed from his office because the coverlet
of the Sultán’s bed was set fire to by a spark one night. The
circumference of the castle is one thousand paces, without a ditch;
an iron gate opens to the west. On the north side, below the upper or
innermost castle, is another castle with two walls, whose circumference
is six thousand paces. It is an oblong square, of a shining whiteness.
The walls are but eighteen yards high, but they are double, and on
three sides the ditch is very deep, so that there is no fear of an
enemy; the ground being marshy, no trenches can be opened. Its three
gates are: on the west side, the gate of Erzerúm, a great gate with
iron wings; the gate of the hot-bath, and a secret gate, shut to the
east side; there is a garrison of seven hundred men, with a well-filled
arsenal, and sixty large and small guns. Towards the south opens
the plain of Pássin, which is seven journies long. The houses, five
hundred and ninety in number, are all stone-built winter houses: the
town consists of nine quarters, with as many mosques. The mosque of
Súleimán is a low terraced mosque, with one minareh in the ancient
style; there is no Bezestán or Medresse, but six schools for boys, a
khán, and a bath. The inhabitants are a brave set of people, kind to
foreigners. There are some men of wit and learning. The great poet
Nefií Efendí was born here; no gardens exist round the castle, because
it is too cold, nevertheless, vegetables are found here in abundance.
Bread and honey are rather to be suspected, for I, myself, poor Evliyá,
having eaten some honey in the commander’s house, became in half an
hour so giddy that I thought of throwing myself down from the castle.
_Description of the Hot-baths._
On the south side of the lower town (Robáth), on the Kiblah side, are
several hot-baths; seven of them are covered with small cupolas, and
in eight other places the water is boiling in the open air, each place
being used for different animals, such as horses, mules, camels, sheep,
and others. The water of these hot-baths is carried to distant places
on camels, and those who are afflicted with leprosy are cured if they
drink of it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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