Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
consists of about seven thousand well built houses, stone walls, and
terraces, each house provided with water; there is an infinite number
of gardens, and twenty-six quarters; the quarters called Meidán and
Shabúrán being in the inner castle are the most elegant; there are
seventy mosques, the oldest is that of Div Alí, who was one of the
Kháns of Shah Tahmáss, but a Sunní; in the suburb is the great mosque
of Sháh Safí, which rivals the vault of the palace of Chosroes. In the
court-yard is a basin, and round it cells for students; the gates of
the mosque of Ferhád Páshá are closed, because it has no endowment;
the mosque of Uzdemír Osmán Páshá is a college, where the Muftí holds
lectures: there is a dining establishment of Sultán Khodabende’s
foundation, forty schools for boys, seven pleasant baths, the best of
which is that of Shabúr, with numerous private rooms and a basin, its
waiters are fine youths. Besides the public baths, there are private
ones in every garden. There are forty caravánseraïs, in each of which
many thousand tománs of wares are deposited. The public security is so
great, that every man leaves his shop open, without the least danger,
when he goes away on business; there are altogether twelve hundred
shops. There is no Bezestán of stone, but nevertheless a great number
of valuable articles; the coffee-houses are meeting-places for wits and
learned men; the air is mild and the land fertile; rice, cotton, seven
sorts of grapes, pears, and water-melons are in great perfection. The
greatest part of the inhabitants are Sunnís of the Hanefirites, who
perform their prayers secretly. I remained during seven days a guest
of the Khán of Shamákhí, Takí Khán, a generous, liberal man, who liked
society and good company. He presented us with many pieces of silk
stuffs, ten tománs of Abássí, and a horse (Karajubúk). Being himself
invited to the entertainment of the Khán of Eriván, he set out from
Shamákhí with one thousand men. Marching to the north we came to the
pilgrimage of Pírderkúh (the old man of the mountain) a great saint,
a fine walking-place the view from which embraces all the buildings
of Shamákhí; the inhabitants of three hundred adjacent villages are
for the most part Dervishes of the order of Begtásh, belonging to
the Convent of this Saint. We advanced from hence six hours to the
north through a cultivated country, and reached the station of Pír
Merízát, where we were treated as guests by the Kelenter. The convent
of this place is called Pír Mirza by some, and Pír Mirka by others,
but the proper mode of spelling the word is Merizát, which signifies
incurvated, because his body is seated in one of the corners of the
convent in an incurvated position, his face turned towards the Kiblah,
his head recumbent on a rock. His body is light and white like cotton,
without corruption at all. The Dervishes who are busy all day long in
cleaning and sweeping the convent, put every night a basin of clear
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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