Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
The Levend troops (irregular levies) sing Persian songs with harmonious
voices. As soon as I entered the town, the Diván assembled, and
notwithstanding the repeated oaths of the members of it, that they had
not molested the Persian caravan, but only taken their custom duties, I
took seven Aghás of them with me to prove the truth of what they said,
by their presence at Erzerúm, whereunto I returned. The Beg and eleven
Aghás presented me with a purse of money, two horses (Mahmúdí), and two
Georgian slaves; and we travelled towards the east for nine hours, to
the castle of Moghazberd, it is a district belonging to Karss, built
by Mogház a Persian Khán; it passed into the hands of the Ak-koyúnlí
of Sháh Ismail, and then into those of Sultán Súleimán; the garrison
consists of a hundred and fifty men; the castle is built of stone in a
pentagon form on a rock, not commanded by any neighbouring height; it
has six hundred houses with gardens and vineyards; a mosque, khán, bath
and ten shops; at the foot of this castle flows the river Arpachaí,
which comes from the mountains of Georgia, and mingles with the Aras
at the Kend of Tekeltí. The castle of Mogházberd is contiguous to the
territory of the Persian castle Shúregil, which alone remained in the
power of the Persians, meanwhile all the districts of it belong to the
government of Karss; the river Arpachaí forms the limits: the eastern
tract of this town is Persian, and the western, Ottoman, belonging
to Karss. Opposite to Mogházberd, at a journey’s distance, is the
castle of Ana on a hill, a square mud castle, built by Núshirván, the
inhabitants are Armenians; between Ana and Karss are two mountains; we
passed this castle and after nine hours journey we arrived at Zárshid
on the utmost frontier, built by the Persian Sháhs, it is the seat of
a Sanjak Beg subordinate to Karss; in the time of war, twelve hundred
men bear arms, the judge has a hundred and fifty aspers; there is no
Muftí nor Nakíb; but a Dizdár (Commander of the castle) and a hundred
and fifty men. The castle is situated on a hill in a plain, at a day’s
journey from Karss to the east on the road to Eriván, there are three
hundred houses with terraces, a mosque, a convent, a bath, and a khan.
Nine hours further eastward is the kent Thálish, on the frontier of
Eriván; we passed Kara Taib, and arrived after twelve hours march
to the east at Three Churches, a great convent built by the Greek
Emperors; the convent is divided into three parts, in one are Greek, in
the others Armenian nuns; these Three Churches and the Seven Churches
on the road to Nakhshiván are the most famous convents of Persia. It
is a convent well worth seeing on account of its monuments and strange
talismans.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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