Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
We set out from Eriván, with a caraván of seven hundred persons toward
the west, and reached after five hours the kent Abdallí, a Persian
village of a hundred houses, which at the time of the conquest was
fixed to be the frontier of Karss. We advanced to the north four hours
to kent Ayárán with five hundred houses; the inhabitants of which
are Gokdúlak; from hence through mountains of luxuriant vegetation
to kent Sheráb-kháneh, situated on a hill, of three hundred Armenian
houses with many gardens, it is a ziámet on the frontier of Karss. We
continued our journey to the west, passing over fertile steppes, and
seeing many castles, which had been ruined by Sultán Murad IV. After
four hours we arrived at kent Begum; the daughter of Uzún Hassan Sháh
of that name built it; the Persian Princesses are even now styled
Beghum: there are three hundred houses of Armenians and Georgians; it
was ruined by Timúr, but seven high arches are still extant among the
ruins on the border of Arpachaí, where the Princes of the Ak-koyúnlí,
Meimendi Khán, Ashár Khán, Otgabai Khán, Gúndúzbai Khán and other Sháhs
are buried, some lying, some seated on their thrones, as if they were
in life, with their names, and the chronographs of their deaths. The
three sides of this old town are a great Yaila. From hence we went to
the west through marshy ground, and some meadows, to the old castle of
Shúreger; Hossein Bikara, delighted with its situation on the river
Arpachaí, built this town according to the advice of Doctor Shúrgerí;
it passed into the hands of Kara Yússúf and was destroyed by Timúr;
Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá ruined it again; large vaults and masses are
yet conspicuous amongst its ruins. The musical tune Shureh is said
to have been invented by Shúreger at the time he was building this
town, whose inhabitants all delight in music, and are famous singers.
The castle is in ruins, and no more than three hundred houses with
terraces are now existing. The half of its districts being situated
on the other bank of Arpachaí belong to the government of Eriván;
those on this side to Karss. It is a mountainous fertile tract of
Georgia which extends northward to the Aras and Zenghí, and along
Mount Caucasus to the Caspian Sea; and on the west to Erzerúm. From
Shúreger we advanced to the west, crossing five small rivers, some of
which come from Georgia, some from the mountains of Azghúr, and flow
into the Aras; some of the ground is marshy. We then arrived at the
ferry of a river, the name of which I am ignorant of. Sultán Murad
crossed this river on his expedition to Eriván, and the spot is yet
marked, where his tent was fixed; the inhabitants planted trees round
it, and made it a prayer-place. Five hours further to the west through
fertile ground is the village of Búlánik, a free ziámet of Sefer Aghá,
of three hundred houses. Seven hours further is the castle of Karss;
we remained a night as guests with Alí Aghá, and continued our journey
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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