Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
This castle is a pentagon of stone situate on a chalk cliff; it may
be compared to the castle of Sín-hissár on the frontiers of Erzerúm.
On the opposite side of the Euphrates is a height by which it is
commanded, but the distance is too great to make it of consequence.
It has three strong gates one behind the other; on the right and left
of the first gate are two brass guns, well worthy to be seen, of
such dimensions that a cobbler might very well work in them without
complaining of the narrowness of the place. They are of the time of
Sultán Súleimán; their length twenty-seven spans and their balls of
three quintals weight. The greatest wonder is how they succeeded in
bringing such large guns to so high a place. At the innermost or third
gate is suspended the mace of a Pehliván, and a bow of Alí. The number
of the houses great and small is six hundred, but they want gardens and
water. Five magazines have been filled with rice and millet ever since
the time of Sultán Selím I., which seem as though they had been laid
up but to-day. There are eleven mosques; the Beg’s is a large mosque
with a minareh of stone; though this castle is built on a rock, yet
the houses are paved with flat stones. On the tower called the Martyrs
towards the north are thirty-two large and small guns; from the gate
of the Martyrs, a water-way cut in the rock leads down to the foot of
it, by which they fetch the water at the time of a siege. There are
three cisterns here near one another, the first is full of good water,
the second smells of saltpetre and the third is very salt. Though this
town is a town of Turkistán, situated on the territory of Erzerúm, yet
its inhabitants are goodnatured, sound people. The linen for tents, the
white salt and the cheese called Katik-peinirí, which is better and
sweeter than that of Mytilene and of Koreisha at Damascus, are famous
all over Asia. The quails, which in summer come in great numbers, the
inhabitants preserve in vinegar for the winter.
Near the magazines are the pilgrimage of Kend Effendí and at the head
of the bridge, that of Melek Ghazí. As this town is not situated on
the great road, caraváns do not pass here. The Euphrates on the east
comes from the mountains of Rúmlí Sultán and flows round the rock
towards the west to the Izúlí Kurds. From the Alps of a thousand lakes
(Bíngol) comes the Murad river, which joins the Euphrates. Whoever
travels from Malatia, Kharpút, Ekín, Pálava, or Diárbekr can only cross
it in a boat. I viewed this town for three whole days, collected what
was due by the Voivode to the Páshá, and received from him an hundred
piastres as a present of arrival (Kúdúmie). I returned in five days to
Kumákh and set out next day northward along the Euphrates to Shúrím,
which has two hundred houses; ten hours further, to the station of
Jebjeh-khání; then leaving the Euphrates to the right, to the village
of Jemen, an Armenian village on the plain of Erzenján; from whence we
arrived at Erzenján.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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