Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
This is a very productive farm (Chiftlik) situated in the plain of
Merzifún. As snow was falling here we suffered much from the cold and
in three hours, after many difficulties, reached Kúlák Hájí Koí, a
village of two hundred houses with a ruined khán and a mosque. The
inhabitants had all fled and there remained not even a cock in the
village. The troops were dying of hunger, and during the night so heavy
a storm blew that the snow was five spans deep in the morning. When the
trumpets of departure sounded we moved on, though every one cursed the
march, and struggling with difficulty against the gale and snow reached
the straight called Diriklipúl, where the distress was very great owing
to the fury of the gale, the quantity of snow, the uncertainty of
the road and the want of provisions. The Páshá distributed money and
encouraged some of the bravest to go in search of the road, through the
midst of the snow, which they passed over in shoes made of horse-hair.
This sort of shoe is called Páchila, and is used in Turkistán and
Persia when snow has fallen to any depth. It consists of a circle
like a sieve, the inside of which is fashioned into a shoe made of
horse-hair; this they put on their feet to walk over the snow. The
circle round the shoe is to give a greater surface to the foot in order
to prevent it from sinking into the snow. Provided with such shoes the
troops entered the straight, but were in the greatest distress, for
some were lost notwithstanding these Páchila. Mules, camels and horses
were stumbling one over the other and cries and lamentations pierced
the air. The Sárija and Segbáns, so many Calibáns (Kaltiban) were the
first who fled. In short it was impossible to pass the straight of
Diriklipúl and therefore we were obliged to repair with the rest of
the troops and the heavy baggage of the Pásha to Gumish Kala’a (Silver
Castle), which we reached after a six hour’s march. We remained here
three days till the falling of the snow had ceased. All those who
hastened to the fire lost their sight for some time, and those only
who did not approach it, but endured the cold, retained the use of
their eyes. Seventeen men lost either a leg or a hand or a foot by the
excessive cold, and the leg or hand being cut off, the stumps were
dipped into boiling resin, so that their cries pierced the air.
_Description of the town of Gumish._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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