One of the finest glens in all the West Highlands is Glen Nevis,
which, opening out in the direction of the old Castle of Inverlochy,
extends eastwards and inland, the valley gradually narrowing into
glen and gorge as you proceed, for nine or ten miles, presenting at
every turn and standpoint throughout its many windings a succession
of the most striking and beautiful pictures imaginable, so striking
and startling at times, and new at least in some of their details,
that a genuine lover of mountain scenery wishes that he could devote
an entire day to every separate mile of its extent, rather than have to
hurry through it all in something like half a dozen hours, which is the
way the thing is usually done. It is like being dragged, as happened to
us once, by a nervous and impatient lady friend of ours, at a sort of
half trot through a picture gallery, where, if you had your own way,
you would gladly lounge and linger till the custodier of the place,
perhaps, came respectfully to hint that the afternoon was far advanced,
and that shutting-up time was at hand. With the entrance to Glen Nevis,
as far as the mansion-house, we had long been familiar, and once at
least we had a bird's-eye glance into the glen proper itself, from
the summit of Dundearduil, which we had approached from the south in
order to examine its curious and still inexplicable vitrifications. It
was not, however, till Friday last, that we had an opportunity of
thoroughly exploring the glen through all its windings, and coming
with little difficulty to the conclusion already expressed, that of
all our West Highland glens, it is, perhaps, the most beautiful and
(Glencoe always apart) the most deserving of a thorough and leisurely
examination. We were fortunate in having hit upon a highly favourable
day--not too bright, for glaring sunshine and unclouded brightness
amongst mountain scenery is a great mistake--and no less fortunate in
our companions, each one of them blessed with eyes that, open, could
really see, and hearts that, duly appealed to, could truly feel; who
knew full well what they had come to do, and from first to last did
it admirably. Barely, we should say, has the noble glen exposed its
stern grandeur and innumerable beauties under favourable skies, to the
glad and earnest gaze of more intelligently appreciative spectators;
and more rarely still, perhaps, have the splendid falls of the Nevis
borne burden to peals of honester or merrier laughter than we indulged
in as over the well-plenished luncheon basket we fortified ourselves
for the ascent of the upper gorges,--a somewhat "stiff" climb, but
neither really difficult nor dangerous. When we say that at Glen Nevis
House our party was joined by Mr. Macpherson--fear a ghlinne e féin,
the goodman of the glen himself, as the Highlanders say--who kindly
accompanied us throughout, and to whom every foot of the glen was
as familiar as the floor of his own dining-room, many of our readers
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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