New lands within the Arctic circle: Narrative of the discoveries of the Austrian ship "Tegetthoff" in the years 1872-1874Payer, Julius
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New lands within the Arctic circle: Narrative of the discoveries of the Austrian ship "Tegetthoff" in the years 1872-1874
Payer, Julius
Admiral Tegetthoff (Ship); Arctic regions; Franz Josef Land (Russia) -- Discovery and exploration
4. For some days we had entered into a world utterly strange to most
of us on board the _Tegetthoff_. Dense mists frequently enveloped us,
and from out of the mantle of snow of the distant land the rocks, like
decayed battlements, frowned on us inhospitably. There is no more
melancholy sound than that which accompanies the decay and waste of the
ice, as it is constantly acted on by the sea and thaw, and no picture
more sad and solemn than the continuous procession of icebergs floating
like huge white biers towards the south. Ever and anon there rises
the noise of the ocean swell breaking amongst the excavations of the
ice-floes, while the water oozing out from their icy walls falls with
monotonous sound into the sea; or perhaps a mass of snow, deprived of its
support, drops into the waves, to disappear in them with a hissing sound
as of a flame. Never for a moment ceases the crackling and snapping sound
produced by the bursting of the external portions of the ice. Magnificent
cascades of thaw-water precipitate themselves down the sides of the
icebergs, which sometimes rend with a noise as of thunder as the beams of
the sun play on them. The fall of the titanic mass raises huge volumes
of foam, and the sea-birds, which had rested on its summit in peaceful
confidence, rise with terrified screams, soon to gather again on another
ice-colossus.
5. But what a change, when the sun, surrounded by glowing cirrus clouds,
breaks through the mist, and the blue of the heavens gradually widens
out! The masses of vapour, as they well up, recede to the horizon, and
the cold ice-floes become in the sunlight dark borders to the “leads”
which gleam between them, on the trembling surface of which the midnight
sun is mirrored. Where the rays of the sun do not directly fall on it,
the ice is suffused with a faint rosy haze, which deepens more and more
as the source of light nears the horizon. Then the sunbeams fall drowsily
and softly, as through a veil of orange gauze, all forms lose at a little
distance their definition, the shadows become fainter and fainter, and
all nature assumes a dreamy aspect. In calm nights the air is so mild
that we forget we are in the home of ice and snow. A deep ultramarine sky
stretches over all, and the outlines of the ice and the land tremble on
the glassy surface of the water. If we pull in a boat over the unmoved
mirror of the “ice-holes,” close beside us a whale may emerge from its
depths, like a black shining mountain; if a ship penetrates into the
waste, it looks as weird as the “Flying Dutchman,” and the dense columns
of smoke, which rise in eddies from her funnel, remain fixed for hours
until they gradually melt away. When the sun sinks at midnight to the
edge of the horizon, then all life becomes dumb, and the icebergs, the
rocks, the glaciers of the land glow in a rosy, effulgence, so that we
are hardly conscious of the desolation. The sun has reached its lowest
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