New Zealand -- Description and travel; New Zealand -- History
Not caring to follow in the wake of others, Mr. Fitzgerald left Aorangi
alone, but Zurbriggen climbed thither on his own account in 1895.
An Anglo-Colonial party gained the top ten years later, so that the
ice-cap may now almost be classed among familiar spots. Still, as late
as 1906 something still remained to be done on the mountain--namely,
to go up on one side and go down on the other. This feat, so simple
to state, but so difficult to perform, was accomplished last year by
three New Zealanders and an Englishman. To make sure of having time
enough, they started from their camp--which was at a height of between
6000 and 7000 feet on the eastern side--three-quarters of an hour
before midnight. Hours of night walking followed over moonlit snows,
looked down upon by ghostly crests. When light came the day was fine
and grew bright and beautiful,--so clear that looking down they could
see the ocean beyond the eastern shore, the homesteads standing out on
the yellow-green plains, and on the snows, far, very far down, their
own footprints dotting the smooth whiteness beneath them. It took
them, however, nearly fourteen hours to reach the summit, and then
the most dangerous part of their work only began. They had to gain
the Hooker glacier by creeping down frosted rocks as slippery as an
ice-slide. Long bouts of step-cutting had to be done, and in places the
men had to be lowered by the rope one at a time. Instead of reaching
their goal--the Hermitage Inn below the glacier--in twenty hours,
they consumed no less than thirty-six. During these they were almost
incessantly in motion, and as a display of stamina the performance, one
imagines, must rank high among the exertions of mountaineers. Many fine
spectacles repaid them. One of these, a western view from the rocks
high above the Hooker glacier, is thus described by Mr. Malcolm Ross,
who was of the party:--
“The sun dipped to the rim of the sea, and the western heavens were
glorious with colour, heightened by the distant gloom. Almost on a
level with us, away beyond Sefton, a bank of flame-coloured cloud
stretched seaward from the lesser mountains towards the ocean, and
beyond that again was a far-away continent of cloud, sombre and
mysterious as if it were part of another world. The rugged mountains
and the forests and valleys of southern Westland were being gripped in
the shades of night. A long headland, still thousands of feet below on
the south-west, stretched itself out into the darkened sea, a thin line
of white at its base indicating the tumbling breakers of the Pacific
Ocean.”
[Illustration: THE TASMAN GLACIER]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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