New Zealand -- Description and travel; New Zealand -- History
Otherwise the Chatham islanders have gone on for the last forty years
living quietly in the soft sea-air of their little Arcadia, without
roads and without progress. They grow wool and export it; for the
rest, they exist. A small steamer visits them half-a-dozen times a
year, and brings news, groceries, and clothes, also the correct
time. Great is the tribulation when her coming is delayed. A friend
of mine who witnessed a belated arrival tells me that the boat found
a famine raging. The necessaries lacking, however, were not food, but
tobacco and hairpins. The 60,000 sheep depastured on the islands have
played havoc with some of the native vegetation, and have brought
down retribution in the shape of moving drifts of blown sea-sand,
whereby many acres of good pasture have been overwhelmed. However,
that wonderful binding grass, the marram, has been used to stop the
sand, and is said to have stayed the scourge. Much native “bush” is
still left, and shows the curious spectacle of a forest where trees
spread luxuriantly but do not grow to much more than twenty feet in
height. That, says Professor Dendy, is due to the sea-winds--not cold,
but laden with salt. In this woodland you may see a veronica which
has become a tree, a kind of sandalwood, and a palm peculiar to the
islands. That beautiful flower, the Chatham Island lily--which, by the
way, is not a lily,--blooms in many a New Zealand garden.
* * * * *
The Auckland Isles lie some three hundred miles south of our mainland.
They are nearly four times the size of St. Helena, where, as we know,
several thousand people have in the past managed to live, chiefly
on beef and a British garrison. No one, however, now lives in the
Aucklands. New Zealanders speak of their climate in much the same
strain as Frenchmen use when talking of November fogs in London. There
are, however, worse climates in several parts of the United Kingdom.
It does not always rain there; there are many spots where you are
sheltered from the wind. It is not so cold but that tree-ferns will
grow--the group is their southern limit. The leaning or bowed habits
of the forest are due as much, perhaps, to the peaty soil as to the
sou’westers. Vegetables flourish; goats, pigs, and cattle thrive.
So far are the valleys and hill-sides from being barren that their
plant-life is a joy to the New Zealand botanists, who pray for nothing
so much as that settlement may hold its hand and not molest this floral
paradise. Pleurophyllums, celmisias, gentians, veronicas, grass-trees,
spread beside the sea-gulfs as though in sub-alpine meadows. The leaves
are luxuriant, the flowers richer in colour than on our main islands.
The jungle of crouching rata tinges the winding shores with its summer
scarlet. Dense as are the wind-beaten groves, the scrub that covers the
higher slopes is still more closely woven. The forest you may creep
through; the scrub is virtually impenetrable. A friend of mine, anxious
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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