The better scenery of the North Island is not found in the southern portion unless the traveller is prepared to leave the beaten track and do some rough scrambling in the Tararua and Ruahiné Mountains. Then, indeed, he will have his reward. Otherwise, after taking in the fine panorama of Wellington Harbour, he may be recommended to make his way with all convenient speed to New Plymouth and the forest-clad slopes of Mount Egmont. Thence he should turn to the interior and reach the Hot Lakes district by way of one of the river valleys. That of the Mokau is extremely beautiful in its rich covering of virgin forest. But the gorges of the Wanganui are not only equal to anything of the kind in beauty, but may be ascended in the most comfortable fashion. Arrived at the upper end of the navigable river, the traveller will make his way by coach across country to Lake Taupo and the famous volcanoes of its plateau. [Illustration: LAKE WAIKARE-MOANA] More often the tourist gains the volcanoes and thermal springs by coming thither southward from the town of Auckland. And here let me observe that Auckland and its surroundings make the pleasantest urban district in the islands. Within thirty miles of the city there is much that is charming both on sea and land. Nor will a longer journey be wasted if a visit be paid to the chief bays and inlets of the northern peninsula, notably to Whangaroa, Whangarei, Hokianga, and the Bay of Islands. Still, nothing in the province of Auckland is likely to rival in magnetic power the volcanic district of which Roto-rua is the official centre. To its other attractions have now been added a connection by road with the unspoiled loveliness of Lake Waikarémoana and the forest and mountain region of the Uriwera tribe, into which before the ’nineties white men seldom ventured, save in armed force. Rising like a wall to the east of the Rangitaiki River the Uriwera country is all the more striking by reason of the utter contrast it affords to the desolate, half-barren plains of pumice which separate it from the Hot Lakes. These last and their district include Taupo, with its hot pools and giant cones. But the most convenient point among them for a visitor’s headquarters is undoubtedly Roto-rua. Index Acclimatisation, 59 Acclimatisers, 65 Adams, Arthur, 21 Akaroa, 190, 201, 215 Albatrosses, 213 Alps, 6, 160, 166, 179 Antipodes Island, 206 Aorangi, 163, 164, 165, 167, 170, 173, 175, 233 Ara-tia-tia Rapids, 123 Art, 20, 21, 49 Auckland, 19, 28, 75, 90, 101, 104, 114, 129, 132, 142, 193, 231, 232, 234 Isles, 91, 94, 184, 191, 204, 205, 206, 222, 223, 225 Australia, 5, 10, 11, 20, 37, 73, 101, 165 Australian stock-riders, 68 Bay of Plenty, 115, 116, 117, 120, 140 Beech, 87 woods, 161 Bell, Dr. Mackintosh, 176 Bell-bird, 192 Bidwill, 128, 136 Blackwell, 24 Blue duck, 64 Bounties, the, 206, 207 Bowen, the 182 British trees, 7 Broadleaf, the large or shining, 94 Brunner, 177, 193 Buddle, Mr., 117