Nicaragua : $b its people, scenery, monuments, resources, condition, and proposed canalSquier, E. G. (Ephraim George)
History
Nicaragua : $b its people, scenery, monuments, resources, condition, and proposed canal
Squier, E. G. (Ephraim George)
Nicaragua; Nicaragua -- Description and travel; Nicaragua Canal (Nicaragua)
The churches of La Merced, the Recoleccion, and Calvario, are remarkable
for their size and their fine façades. The front of the latter is
ornamented with panels containing Scriptural groups, admirably executed
in bas-relief, and with niches containing statues of the saints. It has
suffered much from shot, having been twice occupied by besieging forces,
while the superior position of the cathedral was in possession of the
other party. The Merced has also suffered from the same cause, but in a
less degree. It contains some fine paintings, and its principal altar is
an elaborate and very beautiful piece of composition. A convent was once
attached to this church, as also to the church of the Recoleccion, and
to that of San Juan de Dios. But these have been abolished; and the
convent buildings of the Merced, at the time of my arrival, were used as
cavalry barracks, while those of San Juan de Dios had been converted
into a hospital. Besides the churches which I have named, there are ten
or twelve others, but less in size, and of more moderate pretensions.
And as each of these has a chime of bells, and nearly every day is
dedicated to some saint, in whose honor it is essential to ring them
all, a continual clangor is kept up, which, until the stranger becomes
habituated to it, or is deafened outright, is excessively annoying.
When to this list I have added the stone bridge across the ravine to the
south of the city, connecting with the barrio de Guadelupe, I have
finished the architectural notabilities of Leon. This bridge was never
fully completed, but was boldly projected, and the arches spanning the
stream are models of symmetry and good workmanship.
The Indian pueblo of Subtiaba is really part of the city of Leon,
although constituting a distinct municipality. It has also its grand
plaza, and separate public buildings. Its great church is second in size
to no other in Nicaragua, except the cathedral of Leon. The façade is
quaint, with numerous niches filled with figures of grim old saints. It
is substantially built, and has a very high antiquity. “The Parroquial
of Subtiaba,” said the old Bishop, Augustin Morel, writing of this
church in the year 1751, “is the largest and most beautiful in the
Bishopric. The principal and side chapels, and baptistery, are arched,
and high and ample. The body of the church consists of three naves; the
columns are of cedar, with gilt capitals. It has eight altars, four
chapels, a neat sacristy, and is admirably decorated. Its towers are
well proportioned, and its façade imposing and tasteful, and altogether
the edifice is fit for a cathedral.”
Subtiaba has suffered no less than Leon from intestine wars, and is but
a shadow of what it once was, when it could muster two thousand fighting
men in its plaza at a moment’s warning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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