Nicaragua : $b its people, scenery, monuments, resources, condition, and proposed canalSquier, E. G. (Ephraim George)
History
Nicaragua : $b its people, scenery, monuments, resources, condition, and proposed canal
Squier, E. G. (Ephraim George)
Nicaragua; Nicaragua -- Description and travel; Nicaragua Canal (Nicaragua)
or fence of upright posts, and, as we approached, we were saluted with a
ferocious “_Quien vive?_” who are you? Night descents by robbers, on the
haciendas, during civil disturbances in the country, are by no means
uncommon occurrences; and as the estates have usually a considerable
number of men attached to them, they sometimes result in severe fights.
Our approach had therefore alarmed the establishment, and had not our
guide been known, we might have been turned back with a volley, instead
of having the gate opened to us with an invitation to enter. In the
centre of the square was a mud house, surrounded by a thatched shed,
beneath which a dozen hammocks were suspended. Three or four fires were
smouldering just outside of this shed, and around them were reclining
some calves which had been bitten by bats, or injured by wild animals. A
dozen surly dogs stalked amongst the swarthy “vaqueros,” or herdsmen,
whose half naked figures were just visible by the faint red light of the
fires. A couple of women, alarmed by the sound of voices, hurried,
scantily dressed, from the house, but were at once reassured by the
Padre. Altogether, with the champing horses, and the gleaming of arms,
shut in as it was by the darkness as with a pall, the scene was
singularly wild and picturesque.
The animals attended to, the next thing was to dispose ourselves for the
night. The women offered us the house, in which were two naked hide
beds. My bones were agonized at the sight of them, and I chose a hammock
beneath the shed, and wrapping myself in my blanket, tumbled in. The men
gave up their places without grumbling, and stretched themselves on the
bare earth. Soon all was still, except the melancholy howl of the “mono
colorado,” and the low, distant murmur of the lake. I slept soundly
until roused by Ben’s morning gun at the earliest dawn. He had already
prepared a cup of chocolate, which, with a cracker and a _jicara_ of
fresh milk, constituted our breakfast. The horses were saddled, and
giving the princely sum of a rial each to the men whom we had so
summarily dislodged, we started for the lake. The road was through a
beautiful forest of large trees, which the cattle kept comparatively
free from underbrush, and which had occasional open places, where the
ground was covered with long fresh grass. Half an hour brought us to the
shore. The sun had not yet risen, but a brilliant coronet of rays shot
up above the sharply defined and fantastic outlines of the distant
mountains of Segovia, and was reflected in the tremulous waters of the
lake. Immediately in front, towered the volcano of Momotombo; its lower
half purple in the shade, and its upper of the richest amber. A thin
column of smoke rose almost perpendicularly from its summit, which first
caught the crimson rays of the sun, and then changed to gold. Upon the
right, a perfect cone, was the island for which we were bound, and in
the foreground our boat, half drawn up on the shore, and near by, at the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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