Nicaragua : $b its people, scenery, monuments, resources, condition, and proposed canalSquier, E. G. (Ephraim George)
History
Nicaragua : $b its people, scenery, monuments, resources, condition, and proposed canal
Squier, E. G. (Ephraim George)
Nicaragua; Nicaragua -- Description and travel; Nicaragua Canal (Nicaragua)
gradually dispersed, and at eight o’clock, when the boat was moored
under the shadow of a gigantic tree, the sun shone brilliantly upon a
scene as luxuriant as the imagination can portray. Ben boiled his coffee
at the sailors’ fire, and we made our first breakfast on the river with
a degree of satisfaction which, even at this distance of time, it is
pleasant to recall.
At ten o’clock we were once more in motion, and shortly after came to
the Colorado. At the point of junction, fourteen miles above the port,
there is a broad reach, and the river at once assumes a more majestic
character. As I have already said, the Colorado carries off fully
two-thirds of the water of the river, so that no adequate idea of its
size and beauty can be formed until the traveller has reached the main
body of the stream. Here the banks become higher; the low islands
disappear; and the river is walled in by a dense forest. To avoid the
strength of the current, the boat was kept close along the shore, and
the long vines, loaded with gay and fragrant flowers, trailed over the
_chopa_ as it passed beneath them. Brilliantly-colored birds sparkled in
the cool, green coverts, and, for the first time, we saw the ugly
iguanas looking curiously down upon us from the projecting limbs of the
trees. They fully answered to Ben’s description of very ugly snakes,
which Nature, after forming the head and tail, had neglected, until it
was too late, to roll into shape, giving them afterwards four legs, by
way of compensation for her oversight. They abound in Central America,
and are to be met with in almost every locality, but are particularly
abundant on the San Juan, where they attain to great size. They are of a
variety of colors, and the different species (of which there appear to
be several,) are distinguished by other peculiarities. Hundreds of small
size and bright-green color might be seen clinging to every little
branch, or sunning themselves on every old trunk which projected into
the stream. When disturbed, they would dash for the shore with great
swiftness, literally walking the water. We shot many in our passage, but
recovered few, as they are very tenacious of life, and often cling to
the trees after they are killed. They are esteemed delicious food, and
are eagerly sought by the marineros. I could never bring myself to taste
them, although the flesh, after being cooked, looked sufficiently
delicate and inviting. I do not know how close an anatomical affinity
they sustain to the alligator, but their jaws and teeth are much the
same, in miniature, and like the alligator they take to the water if
closely pressed, when there is no hole or tree in which to find refuge.
Their general ugliness is unnecessarily heightened by a kind of crest or
integument which runs along the back, from the root of the neck to the
tail, and which is elevated when the animal is frightened or enraged. I
never overcame my aversion to these reptiles, although I afterwards
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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