Nigeria : $b Its peoples and its problemsMorel, E. D. (Edmund Dene)
History
Nigeria : $b Its peoples and its problems
Morel, E. D. (Edmund Dene)
Ethnology -- Nigeria; Nigeria -- Description and travel
strikingly handsome profiles, with clean-shaven heads and keen cheerful
looks. But many Tuaregs are here also from the far-distant north, even
beyond the Nigerian border; their fierce eyes gleaming above the black
veil drawn across the face, covering the head and falling upon the robe
beneath, once white, now stained and rent by many weeks of travel.
From the shoulders of these hang formidable, cross-handled swords in
red-leather tasselled scabbards. Nor are the Hausas always innocent
of arms, generally a sword. But here is a professional hunter who has
joined the party. You can tell him from his bow held in the right hand
and the quiver of reed-arrows barbed—and, maybe, poisoned—slung across
his back. The legs of the men are bare to the knees, and much-worn
sandals cover their feet. Some carry loads of merchandise, food and
water-gourds; others have their belongings securely fastened on bullock
or donkey. Women, too, numbers of them, splendid of form and carriage,
one or both arms uplifted, balancing upon the carrying pad (_gammo_) a
towering load of multitudinous contents neatly held together in a string
bag. Their raiment is the raiment of antiquity, save that it has fewer
folds, the outer gown, commonly blue in colour, reaching to just below
the knees, the bosom not generally exposed, at least in youth, and where
not so intended, gravely covered as the alien rides by; neck, wrists and
ankles frequently garnished with silver ornaments. Many women bear in
addition to the load upon the head, a baby on the back, its body hidden
in the outer robe, its shiny shaven head emerging above, sometimes
resting against the soft and ample maternal shoulders, sometimes wobbling
from side to side in slumber, at the imminent risk, but for inherited
robustness in that region, of spinal dislocation. Children of all ages,
the elders doing their share in porterage, younger ones held by the hand
(nothing can be more charming than the sight of a youthful Nigerian
mother gladsome of face and form teaching the young idea the mysteries
of head-carriage!). Two tired mites are mounted upon a patient ox, the
father walking behind. A sturdy middle-aged Hausa carries one child on
his shoulders, grasps another by the wrist, supporting his load with his
free hand. A gay, dusty crowd, weary and footsore, no doubt, tramping
twenty miles in a day carrying anything from forty to one hundred
pounds; but, with such consciousness of freedom, such independence of
gait and bearing! The mind flies back to those staggering lines of
broken humanity, flotsam and jetsam of our great cities, products of our
“superior” civilization, dragging themselves along the Herefordshire
lanes in the hop-picking season! What a contrast! And so the trading
caravan, bound for the markets of the south, for Lokoja or Bida—it may
well be, for some of its units, Ibadan or Lagos—passes onwards, wrapped
in its own dust, which, presently, closes in and hides it from sight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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