Nineteen Centuries of Drink in England: A HistoryFrench, Richard Valpy
History
Nineteen Centuries of Drink in England: A History
French, Richard Valpy
Drinking customs -- England; Drinking of alcoholic beverages -- Great Britain; England -- Social life and customs
Chamberlayne states that in 1667 no less than 1,522,781 barrels of beer
were brewed in the city of London, each of them containing from 32 to
36 gallons, and that the amount yearly brewed in London had since risen
to nearly 2,000,000 barrels; and that the excise for London was farmed
out for 120,000_l._ a year.[159]
Jorevin de Rochefort, whose travels were published at Paris in
1672, says:--‘The English beer is the best in Europe’ (_Antiquarian
Repertory_, vol. iv. p. 607). At Cambridge he had a visit from the
clergyman, ‘during which,’ says he, ‘it was necessary to drink two
or three pots of beer during our parley; for no kind of business is
transacted in England without the intervention of pots of beer.’
At this time people frequently ate no supper but took _buttered ale_,
composed of sugar, cinnamon, butter, and beer brewed without hops. It
was put into a cup, set before the fire to heat, and drunk hot.
_Cider_ was again coming into fashion. Butler (_Hudibras_) tells of
Sidrophel that he knew--
... in what sign best sider’s made.
The manufacture being of sufficient moment for reference to astrology.
A new liquor now introduced from Brunswick was a sort of strong beer
called _Mum_, or, sometimes, _Brunswick Mum_. The word has been derived
from _mummeln_, to mumble, or from the onomatopœic _mum_, denoting
silence, and from Christian Mummer by whom it was first brewed. It was
brewed chiefly from malt made from wheat instead of barley. Pope writes
of it:--
The clamorous crowd is hush’d with mugs of mum,
Till all, tuned equal, send a general hum.
This foreign drink was rivalled by Dorset beer.[160]
Lastly, we hear still of _Metheglin_. Pepys (1666) describes his dining
with the king’s servants from meat that came from his Majesty’s table,
‘with most brave drink, cooled in ice; and I, drinking no wine, had
metheglin, for the king’s own drinking, which did please me mightilye.’
It was an article of excise.
A good deal has been made of what is termed the _reaction_ in morals
after the republican spell. For instance, Mr. Samuelson says (_Hist. of
Drink_):--
These extreme measures of repression on the part of the Puritans
led to the result which might be anticipated. They gave courage to
those who were anxious for the return of royalty, and reconciled
many to its reinstatement who would otherwise have struggled for
the maintenance of republican institutions; and when Charles II.
was once more safely enthroned, there followed a reaction in morals
which has left to that period the unenviable notoriety of being the
most corrupt and dissolute in the whole history of our country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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