Nineteen Centuries of Drink in England: A HistoryFrench, Richard Valpy
History
Nineteen Centuries of Drink in England: A History
French, Richard Valpy
Drinking customs -- England; Drinking of alcoholic beverages -- Great Britain; England -- Social life and customs
An observant Frenchman, M. Misson, who in 1698 published his
observations on England and the English, referred particularly to
the custom of _toasting_--a custom (as he declared) almost abolished
amongst French people of any distinction. He noticed that, with
ourselves, to have drunk at table without making it the occasion of
a toast would have been considered an act of gross discourtesy. The
mode of observing the ceremony was that the person whose health was
drunk remained perfectly motionless from the moment his name was
uttered until the conclusion of the health. Or, as Misson sarcastically
describes it:--
If he is in the act of taking something from a dish, he must
suddenly stop, return his fork or spoon to its place, and wait,
without stirring more than a stone, until the other has drunk ...;
after which an _inclinabo_, at the risk of dipping his periwig in
the gravy in his plate. I confess that when a foreigner first sees
these manners he thinks them laughable. Nothing appears so droll
as to see a man who is in the act of chewing a morsel which he has
in his mouth, or doing anything else, who suddenly takes a serious
air, when a person of some respectability drinks to his health,
looks fixedly at his person, and becomes as motionless as if a
universal paralysis had seized him.[181]
It is questionable if Misson was strictly correct in stating that
health-drinking had gone out in good French society. Not long before
this, Pepys had made this entry in his _Diary_:--
To the Rhenish wine-house, where Mr. Moore showed me the French
manner when a health is drunk to bow to him that drunk to you, and
then apply yourself to him whose lady’s health is drunk, and then
the person that you drink to--which I never knew before; but it
seems it is now the fashion.
On a sort of progress through the country that William III. made in
1695, he was entertained, among other places, at Warwick Castle,
by Lord Brook. ‘Guy’s Tower was illuminated. A cistern containing
a hundred and twenty gallons of punch was emptied to his Majesty’s
health.’[182]
A good specimen of the convivial songs of the Jacobites at this time is
to be found in Sir Walter Scott’s collection. It is entitled:--
_Three Healths._
To ane king and no king, ane _uncle_ and father,
To him that’s all these, yet allowed to be neither;
Come, rank round about, and hurrah to our standard;
If you’ll know what I mean, here’s a health to our landlord!
To ane queen and no queen, ane _aunt_ and no mother,
Come, boys, let us cheerfully drink off another;
And now, to be honest, we’ll stick by our faith,
And stand by our landlord as long as we’ve breath.
To ane prince and no prince, ane son and no bastard,
Beshrew them that say it! a lie that is fostered!
God bless them all three; we’ll conclude with this one,
It’s a health to our landlord, his wife, and his son.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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