Nineteen Centuries of Drink in England: A HistoryFrench, Richard Valpy
History
Nineteen Centuries of Drink in England: A History
French, Richard Valpy
Drinking customs -- England; Drinking of alcoholic beverages -- Great Britain; England -- Social life and customs
Again, the _social usages of society_ have a powerful tendency to
indulgence. Friendship and good cheer seem indissolubly intertwined.
Cups that cheer have long been regarded as essential items. But it must
be set down as an unquestionable fact that in the higher circles of
society, far less is drunk than formerly. The London clubs are a very
fair index of the condition of things existing within that sphere.
In them, excess is now practically unknown; at any rate in the more
select clubs. Their cellars teem with good wine now, as they did half a
century ago, when we read:--
The value of the stores found in the cellars of the various
Club-houses in London, may be adduced in evidence of the
estimation in which wine is held, by a portion, at least, of
the higher classes in the metropolis. Carlton Club, 1,500_l._;
United University Club, not much under 2,000_l._ The Literary and
Scientific Athenæum, 3,500_l._ to 4,000_l._ The Union Club appears
to exceed the rest in the contents of its cellars, which remarks
the writer, from whose work we extract this information, ‘disguise
it as people will, is the most important matter after all.’ The
stock of wine (the Chairman declares it to be an under-estimate)
according to a recent valuation, amounts to 7,150_l._ The Junior
United Service Club values its stock of wines at 3,722_l._ Those
of the United Service Club are worth, it is said, 7,722_l._[244]
But riot and rowdyism are things of the past.
Among the middle classes, many of the compulsory drinking usages are
swept away. In Mr. Dunlop’s interesting volume, no less than 297 of
these _usages_ are specified as then rife.[245] A much improved tone is
observable amongst _commercial travellers_ than some fifty years ago,
when the modern Ramazzini wrote:--
Well fed, riding from town to town, and walking to the houses
of the several tradesmen, they have an employment not only more
agreeable, but more conducive to health than almost any other
dependent on traffic. But they destroy their constitutions by
intemperance; not generally by drunkenness, but by taking more
liquor than nature requires. Dining at the traveller’s table, each
drinks his pint or bottle of wine; he then takes negus or spirit
with several of his customers, and at night he must have a glass or
two of brandy and water. Few commercial travellers bear the employ
for thirty years--the majority not twenty.[246]
And Mr. Samuelson, in his _History of Drink_, sees traces of an
improving tone amongst the operative classes; of which, amongst other
things, the dissociation of benefit and other clubs from taverns, is an
index.
There are fewer now to sneer at the efforts for a moral regeneration.
It may be doubted if Mr. Barham would to-day gloat over his lines in
the _Milkmaid’s Story_:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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