Nooks and Corners of English Life, Past and PresentTimbs, John
History
Nooks and Corners of English Life, Past and Present
Timbs, John
England -- Social life and customs
Among the glories of olden confectionery was March-pane, a biscuit
composed of sugar and almonds, like those now called Macaroons. It is
also called _massepain_ in some old books. The word March-pane exists,
with little variation, in almost all the European languages; yet the
derivation of it is uncertain. In the Latin of the Middle Ages,
March-panes were called _Martii panes_, which gave occasion to Hermolaus
Barbaras to inquire into their origin, in a letter to Cardinal
Piccolomini, who had some sent to him as a present. Balthazar Bonifacius
says they were named from Marcus Apicius, the famous epicure. Minshew,
following Hermolaus, will have them originally sacred to Mars, and
stamped with a castle.
Whatever was the origin of their name, the English receipt-books show
that they were composed of almonds and sugar, pounded and baked
together. Here is a receipt:
"_To make a March-pane._--Take two pounds of almonds, being
blanched, and dryed in a sieve over the fire, beate them in a
stone mortar, and when they bee small, mixe them with two pounds
of sugar beeing finely beaten, adding two or three spoonefuls of
rose-water, and that will keep your almonds from oiling: when your
paste is beaten fine, drive it thin with a rowling pin, and so lay
it on a bottom of wafers; then raise up a little edge on the side,
and so bake it; then yce it with rose-water and sugar, then put it
into the oven againe, and when you see your yce is risen up and
drie, then take it out of the oven and garnish it with pretie
conceipts, as birdes and beasts being cast out of standing-moldes.
Sticke long comfits upright into it, cast bisket and carrowaies in
it, and so serve it: you may also print of this march-pane paste
in your moldes for banqueting dishes. And of this paste our comfit
makers at this day make their letters, knots, armes, escutcheons,
beasts, birds, and other fancies."--_Delightes for Ladies_ 1608.
March-pane was a constant article in the desserts of our ancestors, and
appeared sometimes on more solemn occasions. When Elizabeth visited
Cambridge, the University presented their chancellor, Sir William Cecil,
with two pairs of gloves, a march-pane, and two sugar-loves. In the old
play of _Wits_ we find a reference to
"----dull country madams that spend
Their time in studying recipes to make
March-pane and preserve plumbs."
Castles and other figures were often made of march-pane for splendid
desserts, and were demolished by shooting or throwing sugar-plums at
them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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