To the north-east is "Catch'em Corner"; but it is uncertain what is to
be caught except a chill, for the position is very bleak. Striking
northwards we get into the delightful Nidd valley. To the right lies
Ripley, famous for the rood screen, the ancient glass, and Edwardian
tomb of the Ingilbys of the castle, which Tudor structure surrendered to
the Parliament a day or so before Marston Moor was fought. Here Cromwell
is said to have sat up all night before the battle, hob-a-nob with his
unwilling hostess.
Going northwards from Fewston, the prettiest part of the road to Pateley
is struck near the village of Dacre. The romantic rocks and glens
hereabouts are famous, and much frequented by tourists, consequently
sixpences and threepences have to be frequently disbursed. The price is
cheap enough, but the romance is spoiled. Hack Fall, near Masham, to the
north-east, is as lovely a spot as one could wish to see, but there are
too many signs of civilisation about. It is like taming a lion. The
guide-book tells you to go along until you get to a "refreshment
house," which almost reads like an advertisement in disguise.
There is a sculptured Saxon cross in Masham churchyard, and the church
contains a fine monument to the Wyvells of Burton Constable manor, an
old house near Finghall, to the north-west, where members of the family
are also buried. The famous Jervaulx Abbey ruins nestle in a hollow on
the right of the road to Middleham. When close upon it we asked the way
of a yokel, but he shook his head; and then it dawned upon him what we
meant: "It's Jarvey ye warnt," he said, and pointed straight ahead.
Scott's worthy, Prior Aylmer, would surely beam with joy at the tender
care bestowed upon the remains of the establishment over which he once
presided; and the park might grace the finest modern dwelling, judging
by the well-kept lawns and walks; but all this trimness looks less
natural to a ruin than the more rustic surroundings of Easby, for
example. The remains of the Cistercian monastery are rather fragmentary,
consisting mainly of some graceful octagonal pillars and a row of lofty
lancet windows in the wall of the refectory, and some round-headed
arches of the chapter-house. It was destroyed in 1539, and the beautiful
screen of the church carried off to Aysgarth, where it may now be seen.
Continuing along the road to Middleham, Danby Hall, the ancient seat of
the Scropes, is seen in the distance on the right; but the river
intervenes, and one has to go beyond East Witton before a crossing can
be obtained. This village, built on either side of a wide green, has
nothing out of the common except its Maypole and its very conspicuous
Blue Lion rampant. A blue lion is a little change after the hackneyed
red, and the beast looks proud of his originality. Witton probably was
much prettier before the jubilee celebration of George III.'s reign,
when the old church and most of the old houses were pulled down.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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