All that remains of the old Jacobean house of Spye is a subterranean
passage beneath the terrace; but the Tudor entrance gate to the
picturesque park stands on the left-hand side of the road to Lacock just
before the road begins its winding precipitous descent. Evelyn saw the
house soon after it was built, and likened it to a long barn. The view
is superb, but, strangely enough, not a single window looked out upon
the prospect! After dining and a game of bowls with Sir Edward Baynton,
the Diarist took coach; but, says Evelyn, "in the meantime our coachmen
were made so exceeding drunk, that in returning home we escaped great
dangers. This, it seems, was by order of the knight, that all
gentlemen's servants be so treated; but the custom is barbarous and much
unbecoming a knight, still less a Christian."
A mile or so to the east of the entrance gate of Spye is Sandy Lane, a
tiny hamlet with trim thatched cottages and a sturdy seventeenth-century
hostelry, the "George," looking down the street; and farther along in
the direction of Devizes stands the "Bell," another ancient roadside
inn, which, judging from its mullioned windows, knobbed gables, and
rustic porch, must date back to the days of the first Charles.
In Bromham village also there are some pretty half-timber buildings, not
forgetting the "lock-up" by the churchyard. The exterior of the church
is richly sculptured; a fine example of the purest Gothic.
[Illustration: LACOCK.]
[Illustration: LACOCK.]
Sleepy old Lacock, with its numerous overhanging gables, is a typical
unspoiled village. It was once upon a time a town, but by all
appearances it never can have been a flourishing one; and let us hope it
will remain in its dormant state now that there is nothing out of
harmony, for the Lacock of to-day must look very much as it did two
hundred years or more ago. It consists mainly of two wide streets, with
a fine old church at the end of one and a lofty seventeenth-century inn
at the other. Opposite the latter is a monastic barn with blocked-up
arched doorway, and facing it a fine row of timbered houses. Wherever
you go the pervading tone is grey, and one misses the little front
gardens with bright flowers and creepers. By the school stands the
village cross. Farther along a great wide porch projects into the
street, and over it a charming traceried wooden window. Nearer the
church the road narrows, and a group of timber cottages make a pleasing
picture, one of them with a wide entrance of carved oak spandrels above
an earlier stone doorway. The church, a noble edifice, has a very
graceful spire and some good tombs, including two wooden mural monuments
to Edward Baynard who lived in Elizabeth's reign, and to Lady Ursula
Baynard in the reign of Charles I.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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