Nooks and Corners of PembrokeshireTimmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
History
Nooks and Corners of Pembrokeshire
Timmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
Pembrokeshire (Wales) -- Description and travel
Thenceforward ensues an exhilarating stretch across the open
boulder-strewn headland. Overhead the sun shines bright and warm, light
fleecy clouds drift landward under a bracing sea-breeze, casting their
purple shadows athwart the azure plain of ocean, which breaks in white
foam upon the 'grisly, fiendy Rockys blake' that fringe the broad sweep
of Whitesand Bay.
We now push on to the outermost crags of the headland. Stretching
seawards like a long, crooked finger, this remote peninsula forms the
most westerly landfall of Pembrokeshire, and the southernmost horn of
that great Welsh gulf known as Cardigan Bay. Making our way over rough,
rocky ground, we pass a huge half-fallen cromlech; and, as the headland
narrows, a crumbling rampart flanked by a half-obliterated fosse appears
to bar all further progress. This ancient structure, called Clawdd y
Millwyr, or the Warriors' Dyke, is constructed of smallish granite
stones, compacted with soil and turf; it runs in a slightly-curved line,
which is convex upon the landward face, from sea to sea across the
narrow peninsula.
Just within the shelter of the bank, upon a stretch of comparatively
level greensward, lies one of those _cityau_, or groups of hut-circles,
occasionally to be met with throughout Wales. Six at least of these
primitive dwellings are here discernible, all within a few feet of one
another, and each of considerable size; many of the stones have sharp,
square edges, and some appear to have been rudely shaped to the
requisite curve of the circle.
Tradition itself is dumb regarding the origin of these mysterious
structures; but there can be little doubt they were erected at a very
remote period.
Once again under way, we shape our course for the rocky peak of Carn
Llidi. Although barely 600 feet in height, this isolated monticle is in
its upper parts abrupt and precipitous. At first our path leads away up
the ferny slope to a sort of saddle-backed ridge, over whose bare jagged
ledges we clamber onwards until a short, sharp pull up a kind of stony
_couloir_ lands us upon the topmost crag.
Here we seem to have mounted (like Jack on his Beanstalk) into a new and
undiscovered world, for this isolated perch affords a bird's-eye view
over land and sea that rolls away to the distant horizon. Far beyond the
broad expanse of Cardigan Bay the highlands of Snowdonia loom faint but
clear; a wrinkled, treeless country, chequered by countless fields and
dotted with white farmhouses, trends away league upon league to the
foot-hills of Precelly, and the smoke-begirt heights of Glamorgan. Roch
Castle, upon its lonely hillock, looks out across a silver stretch of
St. Bride's Bay to the islands of Ramsey and Skomer. The village-city is
hidden by an intervening rise, but its situation is marked by the
conspicuous windmill; and westwards St. Davids Head thrusts out like a
crooked finger into the open sunlit ocean.
[Illustration: OLD COTTAGE NEAR ST DAVIDS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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