Nooks and Corners of PembrokeshireTimmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
History
Nooks and Corners of Pembrokeshire
Timmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
Pembrokeshire (Wales) -- Description and travel
Near the south-east angle of the Trewern Chapel rises the ancient Celtic
cross that figures conspicuously in our sketch. This curious monument
goes by the name of St. Byrnach's Stone. It stands upwards of 10 feet in
height, and is overlaid with the interlacing ornament peculiar to these
structures. So boldly and deeply are the patterns incised, as to be
little the worse for ten centuries of wind and weather, the hoary
lichens that cling to the rugged surface of the monolith serving but to
enhance its venerable aspect.
Anent this ancient stone, there is a quaint tradition which tells how,
in olden times, the cuckoo was wont to first sound his note in this
locality on the day of the patron saint, April 7.
'I might well here omit,' says George Owen, 'an old report as yet fresh
of this odious bird, that in the old world the parish priest of this
church would not begin Mass until the bird--called the citizen's
ambassador--had first appeared, and began her note on a stone called St.
Byrnach's Stone, being curiously wrought with sundry sort of knots,
standing upright in the churchyard of this parish; and one year staying
very long, and the priest and the people expecting her accustomed coming
(for I account this bird of the feminine gender), came at last, lighting
on the said stone--her accustomed preaching-place--and being scarce able
once to sound the note, presently fell dead.'
It is somewhat reassuring to be told by the same authority that 'this
vulgar tale, although it concerns in some sort church matters, you may
either believe or not without peril of damnation.'
Quitting the pleasant precincts of the church, we pursue a crooked lane
that skirts the green mounds of the 'castell,' and, turning thence past
a solitary thatched cottage, make our way along a hollow tree-shaded
pathway. Keeping a sharp look-out upon every side, we presently espy the
object of our search, the form of a cross, half obliterated by ivy
sprays and tufts of rushy grass, being seen rudely graven upon the high
sandstone bank by the lane side; while a sort of hollow kneeling-place
can be distinguished in the rock at the bottom of the cross.
[Illustration: PILGRIM'S CROSS AT NEVERN.]
For we are now upon the line of an ancient pilgrims' way, whose course
is marked by well-worn tracks in the soft red sandy rock; and this
solitary cross calls up visions of the mediæval wayfarer pausing upon
his journey to St. David's Shrine, to invoke before Croes Byrnach the
benediction of that influential saint. We are at some pains (owing to
the exuberant undergrowth) to obtain a sketch of this interesting
object, for, so far as we are aware, no other cross like this is to be
found throughout the length and breadth of Wales.
In an out-of-the-way locality about two miles north of Nevern stands a
farmhouse called Trellyfan, _anglicè_ Toadstown. The origin of this
singular name is explained by the following story, narrated by no less
an authority than the famous Giraldus Cambrensis.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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