Nooks and Corners of the New England CoastDrake, Samuel Adams
History
Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast
Drake, Samuel Adams
New England -- Description and travel
Proceeding onward in this direction, I came to the fish-houses that
remain on the isle. Tubs of trawls, a barrel or two of fish-oil, a pile
of split fish, and the half of a hogshead, in which a "kentle" or so of
"merchantable fish" had just been salted down, were here and there; a
hand-barrow on which to carry the fish from the boat, a lobster-pot, and
a pair of rusty scales, ought to be added to the inventory. Sou'-westers
and suits of oil-skin clothing hung against the walls; and in the loft
overhead were a spare block or two and a parcel of oars, evidently
picked up adrift, there being no two of the same length. In some of the
houses were whale-boats, that had been hauled up to be calked and
painted, that the men were preparing to launch. They were all
schooner-rigged, and some were decked over so as to furnish a little
cuddy for bad weather. No more sea-worthy craft can be found, and under
guidance of a practiced hand one will sail, as sea-folk say, "like a
witch." They usually contained a coil of half-inch line for the road, a
"killick," and a brace of powder-kegs for the trawls.
The process of curing, or, as it is called by the islanders, "saving,"
fish is familiar to all who live near the sea-shore, and has not changed
in two hundred years. It is described as practiced here in 1800, by Dr.
Morse:
"The fish, in the first place, are thrown from the boat in piles on the
shore. The cutter then takes them and cuts their throat, and rips open
their bellies. In this state he hands them to the header, who takes out
the entrails (detaching the livers, which are preserved for the sake of
the oil they contain), and breaks off their heads. The splitter then
takes out the backbone, and splits them completely open, and hands them
to the salter, who salts and piles them in bulk, where they lie from ten
to twenty hours, as is most convenient. The shoremen and the women then
wash and spread them on the flakes. Here they remain three or four
weeks, according to the weather, during which time they are often
turned, piled in fagots, and then spread again, until they are
completely cured for market."
The "dun," or winter fish, formerly cured here, were larger and thicker
than the summer fish. Great pains were taken in drying them, the
fish-women often covering the "fagots" with bed-quilts to keep them
clean. Being cured in cold weather, they required but little salt, and
were almost transparent when held up to the light. These fish sometimes
weighed a hundred pounds or more. The dun fish were of great esteem in
Spain and in the Mediterranean ports, bringing the highest price during
Lent. They found their way to Madrid, where many a platter, smoking hot,
has doubtless graced the table of the Escurial. In 1745 a quintal would
sell for a guinea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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