Nooks and Corners of the New England CoastDrake, Samuel Adams
History
Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast
Drake, Samuel Adams
New England -- Description and travel
I was too well acquainted with maritime towns to be surprised at finding
fishing-boats, even of a few tons burden, a quarter of a mile from the
water. They might even be said to crop out with remarkable frequency.
Some were covered with boughs, their winter protection; others were
being patched, painted, or calked, preparatory for launching, with an
assiduity and solicitude that can only be appreciated by the owners of
such craft. On the street that skirts the harbor I saw a fisherman just
landed enter his cottage, "paying out," as he went, from a coil of rope,
one end being, I ascertained, fastened to his wherry. I remember to have
seen in Mexico the _vaqueros_, on alighting from their mules, take from
the pommel of their saddles some fathoms of braided hair-rope, called a
lariat, and, on entering a shop or dwelling, uncoil it as they went. The
custom of these Marblehead fishermen seemed no less ingenious.
In a sea-port my instinct is for the water. I have a predilection for
the wharves, and, though I could well enough dispense with their smells,
for their sights and sounds. The cross-ways in Marblehead seem in search
of the harbor as they go wriggling about the ledges. I should say they
had been formed on the ancient foot-paths leading down to the fishing
stages. At the head of one pier, half imbedded in the earth, was an old
honey-combed cannon that looked as if it might have spoken a word in the
dispute with the mother country, but now played the part of a capstan,
and truant boys were casting dirt between its blistered lips. In Red
Stone Cove there lay, stranded and broken in two, a long-boat, brought
years ago from China, perhaps, on the deck of some Indiaman. Its build
was outlandish; so unlike the wherries that were by, yet so like the
craft that swim in the turbid Yang Tse. I took a seat in it, and was
carried to the land of pagodas, opium, and mandarins. Its sheathing of
camphor-wood still exhaled the pungent odor of the aromatic tree. On
either quarter was painted an enormous eye that seemed to follow you
about the strand. In all these voyages some part of the Old World seems
to have drifted westward, and attached itself to the shores of the New.
Here it was a Portuguese from the Tagus, or a Spaniard of Alicante;
elsewhere a Norwegian, Swede, or Finn, grafted on a strange clime and
way of life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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