Nooks and Corners of the New England CoastDrake, Samuel Adams
History
Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast
Drake, Samuel Adams
New England -- Description and travel
From the village of Ogunquit there are two roads. I chose the one which
kept the shore, in order to take in my way Bald Head Cliff, a natural
curiosity well worth going some distance to see. The road so winds
across the rocky waste on which the village is in part built that in
some places you almost double on your own footsteps. Occasionally a
narrow lane issues from among the ledges, tumbling rather than
descending to some little cove, where you catch a glimpse of
brown-roofed cottages and a fishing-boat or two, snugly moored. The
inhabitants say there is not enough soil in Ogunquit with which to
repair the roads, a statement no one who tries it with a vehicle will be
inclined to dispute. Literally the houses are built upon rocks,
incrusted with yellow lichens in room of grass. Wherever a dip occurs
through which a little patch of blue sea peeps out, a house is posted,
and I saw a few carefully-tended garden spots among hollows of the rock
in which a handful of mould had accumulated. The wintry aspect is little
short of desolation: in storms, from its elevation and exposure, the
place receives the full shock of the tempest, as you may see by the
weather-stained appearance of the houses.
A native directed me by a short cut "how to take another ox-bow out of
the road," and in a few minutes I stood on the brow of the cliff. What a
sight! The eye spans twenty miles of sea horizon. Wells, with its white
meeting-houses and shore hotels, was behind me. Far up in the bight of
the bay Great Hill headland, Hart's and Gooch's beaches--the latter mere
ribbons of white sand--gleamed in the sunlight. Kennebunkport and its
ship-yards lay beneath yonder smoky cloud, with Cape Porpoise Light
beyond. There, below me, looking as if it had floated off from the main,
was the barren rock called the Nubble, the farthest land in this
direction, with Cape Neddoek harbor in full view. All the rest was
ocean. The mackerel fleet that I had seen all day--fifty sail, sixty,
yes, and more--was off Boon Island, with their jibs down, the solitary
gray shaft of the light-house standing grimly up among the white sails,
a mile-stone of the sea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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