Nooks and Corners of the New England CoastDrake, Samuel Adams
History
Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast
Drake, Samuel Adams
New England -- Description and travel
Beneath the cliff the incoming tides have worn the trap-rock to glassy
smoothness, rendering it difficult to walk about when they are wetted by
the spray. From this stand-point it is apparent the wall that rises
before you is the remaining side of one of those chasms which the sea
has driven right into the heart of the crag. The other face is what lies
scattered about on all sides in picturesque ruin. If the view from the
summit was invigorating, the situation below was far from inspiring. It
needed all the cheerful light and warmth the afternoon sun could give to
brighten up that bleak and rugged shore. The spot had for me a certain
sombre fascination; for it was here, more than thirty years ago, the
_Isidore_, a brand-new vessel, and only a few hours from port, was lost
with every soul on board. Often have I heard the tale of that winter's
night from relatives of the ill-fated ship's crew; and as I stood here
within their tomb, realizing the hopelessness of human effort when
opposed to those merciless crags, I thought of Schiller's lines:
"Oh many a bark to that breast grappled fast
Has gone down to the fearful and fathomless grave;
Again, crashed together the keel and the mast,
To be seen tossed aloft in the glee of the wave!
Like the growth of a storm, ever louder and clearer,
Grows the roar of the gulf rising nearer and nearer."
Over there, where the smoke lies above the tree-tops, is
Kennebunkport,[66] where they build as staunch vessels as float on any
sea. The village and its ship-yards lie along the banks of a little
river, or, more properly speaking, an arm of the sea. It is a queer old
place, or rather was, before it became translated into a summer resort;
but now silk jostles homespun, and for three months in the year it is
invaded by an army of pleasure-seekers, who ransack its secret places,
and after taking their fill of sea and shore, flee before the first
frosts of autumn. The town then hibernates.
The _Isidore_ was built a few miles up river, where the stream is so
narrow and crooked that you can scarce conceive how ships of any size
could be successfully launched. At a point below the "Landing" the banks
are so near together as to admit of a lock to retain the full tide when
a launch took place. A big ship usually brings up in the soft ooze of
the opposite bank, but is got off at the next flood by the help of a few
yoke of oxen and a strong hawser. Besides its ship-building,
Kennebunkport once boasted a considerable commerce with the West Indies,
and the foundations of many snug fortunes have been laid in rum and
sugar. The decaying wharves and empty warehouses now tell their own
story.
I was one afternoon at the humble cottage of a less ancient, though more
coherent, mariner than Coleridge's, who, after forty years battling with
storms, was now laid up like an old hulk that will never more be fit for
sea. Together we rehearsed the first and last voyage of the _Isidore_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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