Northern Nut Growers Association Incorporated 39th Annual Report: at Norris, Tenn. September 13-15 1948
Science
Northern Nut Growers Association Incorporated 39th Annual Report: at Norris, Tenn. September 13-15 1948
Northern Nut Growers Association -- Periodicals; Nut trees -- Periodicals; Nuts -- Periodicals
There are two things I want to mention: The value of a combination of a
perennial ground cover with your honeylocust tree, and then I want to
mention the fact that honeylocust _planted_ in a pasture will give no
benefit whatsoever. You are going to have to grow your honeylocust on
the outside, harvest the pods and feed them just like you would corn, or
you are going to have to plant your honeylocust on a barren hillside
someplace that doesn't grow anything else--and I think honeylocust will
grow with a little fertilizer on about the poorest soil you have, the
most eroded soil you have, with a little care--then pasture it after
your trees are large enough so that the cow won't eat the limbs. There
is something about the tree itself that a cow loves. They will chew the
bark and chew the limbs right down to the main trunk.
We have tried planting those trees at four years of age, even, in
pastures, and we just can't get them to survive. In fact, the cows and
the mules in our pasture ate the trees down to the stumps in the
wintertime before they ever started putting out leaves in the spring. So
it has been a problem. (See Dr. Diller's pasture tree-guard paper in
this report.--Ed.)
This value that you can get from growing honeylocust and _Lespedeza
sericea_ on the same soil is the same as with honeylocust and alfalfa if
you are in the alfalfa belt, or something like that with other perennial
legumes. These are the benefits that I think you can get from a
combination: In the first place, the soil is completely protected. In
the second place, a concentrate and hay can be grown on the same
acreage. Third, a good grazing and feeding out program can be
maintained. If you plant your honeylocust on a hillside someplace and
let the trees get large enough so that the cows won't eat them up, have
your ground cover established, by the time that you are ready to pasture
it you can put your cattle in. We had this combination, and I think it
would have worked out very well if it had not been destroyed. We had our
_Lespedeza sericea_ for our summer grazing crop; then we had winter
annuals planted in the _Lespedeza sericea_ for our winter grazing, and
the honeylocust was the fattening crop or finishing-off crop.
What we had planned to do was turn the cattle in on this last plot about
January 1st, let them graze crimson clover, or bur clover, or any other
winter ground cover that grows in your section until the _Lespedeza
sericea_ came on in the early summer. Then they'd graze the _Lespedeza
sericea_ till the honeylocust pods started falling in the fall, and
they'd fatten off on the honeylocust, and you'd put them on the market
just before the Christmas holidays.
Then fourth, the management cost is very low. Fifth, the weed problems
in your pasture are controlled. Sixth, you get maximum production from
the soil. You get your grain and your hay from the same piece of land.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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