Northern Nut Growers Association Incorporated 39th Annual Report: at Norris, Tenn. September 13-15 1948
Science
Northern Nut Growers Association Incorporated 39th Annual Report: at Norris, Tenn. September 13-15 1948
Northern Nut Growers Association -- Periodicals; Nut trees -- Periodicals; Nuts -- Periodicals
There are a few reasons why I should advise against growing filberts in
tree fashion--with a single trunk, as they are mostly grown on the West
Coast. The catkins of the filbert develop during the summer, lie dormant
through the winter, and shed their pollen very early in the spring.
Should the temperature fall as low as -35 deg.F, the catkins winterkill. To
overcome this shortcoming, I bend down and peg to the ground, in the
late fall, a few slim shoots with dormant catkins, so that the snow, or
some other mulching material supplied when there is insufficient snow,
will cover and protect the catkins from winterkilling.
By the end of March, after a stretch of fair weather, two tiny red
tongues appear at the tips of some of the leaf buds. These are the
pollen catching parts of the pistillate flowers. If the winter was kind,
the filbert bushes will be a riot of golden catkins, shedding their
pollen. If the catkins remain dormant when the pistillate flowers bloom,
they have been winterkilled, and the bent down reserves have to be
called up. These being protected during the winter, on being bent back
to their original position, will come into bloom in a few days,
pollenizing the waiting pistillate flowers. Bees eagerly seek this, one
of the earliest pollens. The now fertilized flowers, which always stayed
inside the buds, go back to sleep for about two months; they are safe
from the "North Easter," from late freezes, or from snow. When filberts
are grown naturally, that is with many shoots from the ground, it is
easy to harvest them by shaking the slender shoots. I hand hoed my
bushes for the first three years, and gave them a permanent mulch over
the whole area, adding some material each year.
I am inclined to believe that part of my success with filberts is due to
mulching. In the middle of summer, I apply a 4" cover of low grade hay,
and in the fall I again cover the ground with fallen leaves. Due to the
ideal conditions thus created (optimum temperature and moisture) for
soil bacteria and earthworms, this material is entirely digested. The
mulching material almost disappears by the middle of the next summer,
indicating vigorous biological activity. By this time a new layer of
mulch is spread, completing the cycle. Late in the fall a load of manure
is heaped in the middle of the plantation as an earthworm refuge. This
heap is scattered early in the spring. Light applications of wood ashes
and super-phosphate are given yearly, late in the fall.
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