It was quite late in the season but I went out and set a dozen Schafer walnut buds on eastern black stocks. These buds HAD DRAINAGE. The vertical cut of the T extended at least two inches below the bud. Success ensued, they grew. The following spring we budded as soon as the bark would slip and continued at intervals all summer. Results were good. Some of the steps we now use are probably not essential and perhaps not even the best, but there are two points that cannot be over-emphasized, namely, drainage and contact. The complete method is as follows: 1. Trim bud sticks to leave an inch of petiole on the bud. 2. Make the T cut with a long vertical slash that will extend at least an inch below the bottom of the bud. 3. Cut the bud long and deep and peel it from the wood by pinching the sides. Be carefull not to injure the bark just below the bud. 4. Insert the bud either flush with or below the cross-cut. 5. Wrap with large sized rubber budding strips just firmly enough to make good contact. Too tight wrappings curtail circulation. Do not cover the cut below the bud. The wound must have =drainage=. 6. Be sure that the center of the bud-cut is firm against the cambium layer. If it humps of bows and won't stay down insert a tooth-pick or bit of leaf stem or something along the center line to hold it down. We usually do this during the wrapping process. We use no wax. We throw a wrap over the bud, shoulders even though it may press the petiole forward against the bud. If the center of the bud pulls out it will not grow although an adventitious bud may eventually start. Budding seems about equally successful any time that the bark slips freely. On walnuts this is all summer if not too dry. Early-placed buds may make several feet growth before fall if sufficient moisture is available. On walnuts there are always dormant buds. We have used storage wood but now just cut it fresh. We have not tried draining patch-bud or grafts. Although we have not tried it we think cherries and other trees inclined to drown the buds might be better handled in this manner. Climate is a factor in the type of propagation advisable. One very fine grower using buds in California could propagate only by grafts when he moved to Western Oregon. The kernel of my walnut budding experience may well be summarized in one word--drainage. * * * * * Questions asked Mr. Stoke after his demonstration of grafting and budding. [See his paper in 1946 Report, pp. 99-103.--Ed.] Member: "How do you keep your scions?" Stoke: "I prefer 'orange' cold storage for scionwood. This is just above freezing. Walnuts should be in full leaf before spring budding." McDaniel: "What percentage of chestnuts did well with the 'plate' method of budding?"