Northern Nut Growers Association, Report of the Proceedings at the Third Annual Meeting: Lancaster, Pennsylvania, December 18 and 19, 1912
Science
Northern Nut Growers Association, Report of the Proceedings at the Third Annual Meeting: Lancaster, Pennsylvania, December 18 and 19, 1912
Northern Nut Growers Association -- Periodicals; Nut trees -- Periodicals; Nuts -- Periodicals
I haven't had any personal experience, but I have observed quite a good
deal, and the tendency, it seems to me, is to try to develop as much as
possible the fibrous root. Sometimes that is brought about by cutting
the tap-root, or putting a wire mesh below where the seed is planted, so
as to form an obstruction to the tap-root, so that it necessarily forms
a fibrous root. Where the tap-root is the only root I doubt very much
the advisability of cutting back too severely.
Col. Van Duzee: I have heard this subject discussed all over this
country, in meetings of this kind, and a great deal of energy has been
wasted. I do not think any of us know anything about it, but I do wish
to say this, that when you come to transplant a tree from the nursery to
the orchard, there are things of infinitely more moment than how you
shall hold your knife between your fingers when you cut the roots. The
exposure of the roots to the air, the depth to which the tree is to be
put in the ground, the manner in which it shall be handled--those things
are of infinitely more importance, because we know we can transplant
trees successfully and get good results when the tap-root has been
injured or almost entirely removed. I do not consider that the question
of cutting the tap-root is of very serious importance, but I do think we
should insert a word of caution as to the exposure of the roots of trees
to the atmosphere, and make it just as strong as we are capable of
writing it.
The Chairman: That is a very interesting point, that we have fixed our
eye on the tap-root and talked too much about it. Not long ago one of
the agricultural journals decided finally to settle the question about
the time for pruning grapes, whether it should be done in the fall,
spring, winter or summer, and after summing up all the testimony from
enthusiastic advocates for each one of the seasons, the editor decided
that the best time is when your knife is sharp; and that is very much
the way with the tap-root. Be very particular in getting the root in and
caring for it.
Mr. Pomeroy: Prof. Close, in a bulletin issued two years ago, spoke as
does Col. VanDuzee about protecting the roots of the trees; he said
"when the trees are taken from the box that you receive them in, don't
expose them to the sun or air, puddle every tree, and plant as soon as
possible." I think that is pretty good advice. It doesn't cost any
money, and takes very few minutes, to puddle the trees and it saves many
of them.
The Chairman: I have tried the Stringfellow Method of cutting back top
and root until my men asked me if I didn't want to transplant another
tree instead, and they have grown just as well as trees on which I took
great pains to preserve fine branching roots.
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