Northern Nut Growers Association Report of the Proceedings at the Thirty-Seventh Annual Report: Wooster, Ohio, September 3, 4, 5, 1946
Science
Northern Nut Growers Association Report of the Proceedings at the Thirty-Seventh Annual Report: Wooster, Ohio, September 3, 4, 5, 1946
Northern Nut Growers Association -- Periodicals; Nut trees -- Periodicals; Nuts -- Periodicals
Actual union takes place along this cambial line. The old wood of the
wedge and cleft cannot, and never does, unite.
A word about scions. I seldom use a scion with more than two buds. The
best scion wood is of the previous season's growth, if it is of good
diameter and well ripened. Thin, slender twigs give poor results. On
old, slow-growing, bearing trees it is sometimes not possible to get
good scion wood one year old. In this case it is best to take some of
the older wood in cutting the scion. When used, the wedge should be cut
from the two-year wood, just below the one-year wood, with the top of
the scion carrying two or three buds on the new wood. The tip of the
scion should be waxed, if cut.
Scions should be cut when perfectly dormant and kept in cold storage
until used. If kept too warm and wet the buds may swell, making the
scions worthless.
It is quite possible to cut the scions about three weeks before the buds
begin to swell and get good results by grafting immediately. The chief
danger from this practice is that late frosts may nip the buds after
starting, which is fatal to the new scion.
Waxing all cut surfaces, including the tip of the scion, should be
practiced except as explained when the side graft is used for walnuts.
Some advocate waxing the entire scion, also. If this is done I think it
better to leave the buds unwaxed.
Have your knife very sharp. A broad blade is desirable in a grafting
knife, as it helps in making smooth, flat surfaces in wedges and clefts.
For budding, use a knife with a narrow blade, but also very sharp.
Develop skill in making the scion wedge, and in cutting the cleft just
the right depth and width for the scion selected. Experiment on
worthless material until you get the knack. If you are a good,
natural-born whittler you will find it a greater asset than a college
degree.
Beginnings in Walnut Grafting
By C. C. Lounsberry, Iowa
Anyone who has studied propagation manuals from ancient to modern times
cannot help but see how methods are carried down from older books to
modern ones. However, in walnut grafting one suspects there were trade
secrets not permitted publication. How different this was from friendly
and helpful cultural and propagation directions given by Mr. J. F.
Jones, Dr. W. C. Deming, Dr. Robert T. Morris, and others of the
Northern Nut Growers' Association.
Beginning with Ancient Times
Greeks: Theophrastus mentions hazel nuts but nothing about walnuts.
Romans: Pliny, Cato, etc. have little to say about walnuts. Pliny refers
to planting seeds of walnuts but no other method of propagation.
However, he states oaks and walnuts are poisonous to soil, and walnuts
are only used in a few cases for human remedies.
English: Loudon, Evelyn, Knight, etc. Loudon sticks to propagation of
walnuts by seed. Knight[8] followed the French practice of grafting
walnuts by approach up to the time of his discoveries in 1832, which
were similar to Dr. Morris's "immediate" grafting.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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