Many of the natives, especially the women, were painted; a few of the oldest wore rings on their ankles, and all had their noses pierced for them. My guides painted at Ninstints both black and red, and urged me to do so, saying that it would not only improve my appearance, but prevent the skin from blistering. The preservation of their complexion I find to be the principal reason for painting by the women. They are the fairest on the Coast, and evidently conscious of it. One young woman, exceptionally good looking, ran to a brook upon our approach, and quickly washed off the unsightly pitch, deer tallow and charcoal, that she might appear in all her native charms. Until we rounded Cape St. James, the extreme southern portion of the islands, we encountered but little disagreeably rough sea. Opposite Barnaby Island, however, we were struck by a heavy squall, which swept our canoe over the surface of the water for more than 200 feet, and to within about twenty feet of a precipitous rocky shore, upon which the waves were dashing furiously, before we could recover the use of the oars. But, from the cape northwest, it was a continuous battle amidst storms from all quarters, encountering strong adverse winds and much of what the Indians called _hyas solleks chuck_ (very rough sea). I could then understand why, before leaving, they had inquired so carefully of Mr. McGregor, who recommended them, if I had a _skookum tumtum_ (a stout heart), and of me personally whether I was subject to sea sickness. We were four days rounding one point, making three unsuccessful attempts, the Indians turning back, but not until our canoe had been nearly swamped by heavy breakers. The skill of the natives in handling the canoe is something wonderful. When once at sea, I left its entire management to their judgment. On one occasion, when off a rocky point, we were struck by a heavy sea with alarming force. To advance was seen to be impossible, and to turn back was almost equally perilous. It was no time for indecision, for another great breaker was rolling toward us. With a single signal word from the helmsman, with perfect coolness, a few powerful strokes at just the right time reversed our little bark, and we were soon in safe water again.