Official Report of the Exploration of the Queen Charlotte Islands for the Government of British ColumbiaChittenden, Newton H.
History
Official Report of the Exploration of the Queen Charlotte Islands for the Government of British Columbia
Chittenden, Newton H.
Haida Indians; Queen Charlotte Islands (B.C.)
For considerable distances on the west coast rocky precipitous
mountains face the sea, in places not less than 1,500 feet in height,
almost perpendicular, rising over 4,000 feet within a few miles
back. When running the guantlet of the storms along these forbidding
shores we looked into the mouths of several dark caverns of unknown
depth. Twice Indian Tom raised his paddle, placed four small wads of
tobacco thereon, and, with a supplicating motion of his right hand
toward these caverns, made an offering to the spirits which are
supposed to inhabit them, praying that we might have a safe
voyage. Here we found what I believe to be the grandest scenery of the
Queen Charlotte Islands. We had been pulling for six hours against
head winds, squalls and rough seas along this rocky, high walled
shore, which seemed to offer no place where a landing would be
possible, when suddenly the canoe turned toward land, ran through a
narrow rock bound passage into a little basin about fifty rods square,
surrounded by mountains rising precipitously from 1500 to 2500 feet,
down which ten cataracts were plunging. Grand View Inlet, or whatever
it may be called, is situated about eight miles south of Tasso
Harbor. As we were leaving it two land otters were seen swimming near
the shore. Giving chase, one of them ran out upon the land, where,
after an exciting hunt with dogs, it was killed. One evening, as we
were camping in a rocky cove, Indian Sam suddenly seized his gun, ran
down to the shore, and mounted a great rock where seal had been
seen. Presently he fired, and then stripping off his shirt, dove
headlong into the sea. He soon rose to the surface grasping a great
seal, with which he swam to the shore. Although they had eaten a
hearty supper, they sat up until midnight gorging themselves with its
excessively fat meat. They had one continual feast from the beginning
to the end of the expedition, devouring, besides the supplies taken
with us, seal, wild geese, duck, octopus, clams, halibut, mussels, sea
eggs, bird's eggs, fish spawn, salmon, etc., in great quantities. On
the thirty-third day after leaving Massett, I returned to Skidegate
through the Canoe Passage and Skidegate Channel, where I again
refitted for the west coast of Graham Island and the Virago Sound
country, next to be traversed.
NEWTON H. CHITTENDEN.
* * * * *
CORRESPONDENCE,
NO. III.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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