Old and New Paris: Its History, Its People, and Its Places, v. 2Edwards, H. Sutherland (Henry Sutherland)
History
Old and New Paris: Its History, Its People, and Its Places, v. 2
Edwards, H. Sutherland (Henry Sutherland)
Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- History
Independently of the interest presented by the Palais des Thermes as a
survival of Roman Paris, and of the Hôtel Cluny, as a type of French
architecture, these two monuments shelter a museum in which have been
brought together numerous specimens of curiosities and wonders of all
kinds--some only of antiquarian, others both of antiquarian and of
artistic interest. In the time when Paris was a Gallo-Roman city there
existed on the left bank of the Seine, opposite the island which was to
be known as that of the City, a palace surrounded with immense gardens,
whose green lawns sloped down even to the edge the river. The Norman
invaders laid a portion of it in ruins, and the edifice was by no means
in good condition as a whole when, in 1218, Philip Augustus gave it to
his chamberlain, Henri. Soon afterwards the old buildings and the
gardens connected with them were broken up and apportioned, and towards
the end of the eighteenth century the Bishop of Bayeux sold the remains
of the Palace des Thermes to Pierre de Chalus, the Abbé of Cluny. The
monks of this abbey had plenty of means; and as they did not buy to sell
again, they remained proprietors of the Palace of Julian up to the time
of the Revolution. The ruins were then made over to private persons,
who, without regard to the majesty of history, introduced houses and
shops in the midst of the Roman remains. Louis, as a lettered monarch,
endeavoured to save the ruins from these profanations of the infidels,
and he seems even to have entertained the thought of turning the remains
of the ancient edifice into a sort of museum, but he did not carry out
his idea; it was not until the reign of Louis Philippe that the town of
Paris regained possession of the Palais des Thermes. It ceded the relic
to the State in 1843.
After the lapse of so many centuries the astonishing thing is that one
stone of the ancient Roman edifice should now remain. The part of the
original edifice which Time has spared is that which enclosed the Hot
Baths. The large hall, with its highly-imposing vaulted roof, was the
Hall of the Cold Baths: the so-called Frigidarium. The place occupied by
the fish-tank can still be recognised, and the remains may be seen of
the canals which brought the water into the baths. Bricks and stones
have been alternately employed in the walls, whose surface has been
blackened by “sluttish Time,” and impaired in all sorts of ways. This
hall has had the most varied fortunes, and for a long time it served as
depôt to a cooper, who here stowed away his casks and barrels.
The other portions of the edifice present a purely archæological
interest. Going out of the large hall just mentioned and crossing the
narrow vestibule, one enters the Tepidarium; but here the vaulted roof
has disappeared, and the spectator has nothing around him but crumbling
walls. A few steps further on he will come to sub-structures which are
evidently the remains of the reservoirs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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