Old and New Paris: Its History, Its People, and Its Places, v. 2Edwards, H. Sutherland (Henry Sutherland)
History
Old and New Paris: Its History, Its People, and Its Places, v. 2
Edwards, H. Sutherland (Henry Sutherland)
Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- History
If, to pursue the subject historically, we were to look for remains of
the great wall with innumerable towers which Philip Augustus built
before his departure for the Crusades, in order not to leave his dear
city of Paris without defence, we should find it difficult to discover
even traces; though the most imposing of the towers were destroyed not
more than twenty or thirty years ago. They were brought to light by
preceding demolitions, themselves in turn to be laid in ruins. At the
foot of one of these towers a treasure, dating from Gallo-Roman times,
was dug up. It was valued, according to the weight of the gold, at
30,000 francs, though its artistic and historical worth was a hundred
times greater. Most of the medals found their way to England. In the
Cour de Rouen, close to the Passage du Commerce, is, or was until
lately, to be seen a well-preserved fragment of a Philip Augustus tower,
standing, half-smothered with ivy, on a piece of wall, broad enough to
serve as terrace to the adjoining house, where a girls’ school had been
established. “It is a joyful sight,” says M. Edouard Fournier, “to see
children of the present day leaping and bounding on this remnant of
antiquity.” Further on, in the Rue Clovis--which the reader may remember
as figuring in Eugène Sue’s “Wandering Jew”--is another relic of this
same wall. In the Rue Dauphine, at the back of the house numbered 34, is
a tower almost in its original form; and close by, in the Rue Guénégaud,
the body of another, which stood on the edge of the wall that from this
point went on in a straight line to the celebrated Tour de Nesle. The
ruined tower of the Rue Guénégaud served some years ago as background to
a blacksmith’s forge, whose flames cast a lurid light on this obscure
reminder of a past age.
[Illustration: SITE OF THE HOUSE OF ABAILARD AND HÉLOISE, RUE DES
CHANTRES.]
Passing to the other side of the water (where our subject inevitably
leads us, though it is on the left bank that Paris antiquities are
chiefly to be sought), we find several houses ancient themselves, or at
least closely connected with ancient associations. In the former Rue des
Jardins Saint-Paul--now Rue Charlemagne--where Rabelais died, and where
Molière passed the first years of his dramatic apprenticeship, may be
seen, in the courtyard of the neighbouring barracks, remains of one of
the two towers which Charles X. gave in 1485 to the nuns of the Ave
Maria convent, whose cloister the barracks have now replaced. At No. 20
of the Rue Rambuteau some twenty metres of the old wall, here in the
form of a terrace, are to be found; and finally, in the very heart of
Paris, in the Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, where the General Post Office
is established, is preserved at the back of No. 12 a tower which has
still two-thirds of its original height. It stands twenty-four feet
above the soil. In its entirety it was, like all the other towers,
thirty-nine feet high.
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