Old Chelsea: A Summer-Day's StrollMartin, Benjamin Ellis
History
Old Chelsea: A Summer-Day's Stroll
Martin, Benjamin Ellis
Chelsea (London, England) -- Description and travel
On our right, along the southern shore, stretches Battersea Park, fringed
with its great masses of cool foliage; where not long ago were marshes
and meadows, and the barren, bleak, Battersea Fields. In those fields
was fought the famous duel in 1829, between the Duke of Wellington and
Lord Winchelsea. And long before that, in the reeds along that shore was
hid Colonel Blood, intending to shoot Charles II. while bathing, as was
the King’s custom, “in the Thames over against Chelsey; but his arm was
checked by an awe of Majesty.” So, at least, Blood had the impudence to
narrate, when on his trial for his audacious and almost successful
attempt to steal the royal regalia from the Tower in May, 1671. Whether
the King was touched by the narrative, or whether, as has been hinted,
his impecunious Majesty was implicated in the plot to rob the crown; it
is certain that he pardoned the daring adventurer, and gave him a yearly
pension of £500.
[Picture: Old Battersea Church, where Blake was married, showing the
window from which Turner sketched]
Beyond the Bridge, back of us, rises the square, squat tower of St.
Mary’s, Battersea, builded in the worst churchwarden style; and otherwise
only notable for that therein was married Blake the madman; that there
Turner loved to sit at the vestry window and sketch; and that there lie
the remains and stand the magnificent monument of St. John Bolingbroke,
and of his second wife, niece of Madame de Maintenon: both their epitaphs
written by him. Not far from the church, on the river bank next to the
mill, still stands one wing of the great seventy-roomed Bolingbroke
House; in which St. John was born, to which he returned from his stormy
exile, there to pass his remaining days in study, and there to die.
Through its many old-time chambers with the famous “sprawling Verrio’s”
ceiling paintings, I will lead you into the historic cedar-room, on the
river front—Bolingbroke’s favourite retreat, whose four walls, panelled
with cedar from floor to ceiling, are still as redolent as when
Pope—Bolingbroke’s guest—began in it his “Essay on Man,” inspired thereto
by his host; whose wit, scholarship, philosophy had, during his exile,
inspired also Voltaire and made him own his master. Here in this room
were wont to meet Bolingbroke and Pope, Chesterfield and Swift—that
brilliant quartette who hated, plotted against, and attacked Walpole.
His house—Sir Robert’s—forms part of the great mass of Chelsea Hospital,
dim in the distance before us; between, stretches the old Dutch front of
Cheyne Walk, near at hand resolving itself into most ancient houses, with
quaint windows in their sloping roofs; their red tiles and
chocolate-brown bricks showing dark behind the green of the old
lime-trees. The setting sun lingers lovingly on the square church tower,
venerable with the mellow tints of time; and presently the moon comes up,
washing out all these tints, except that of the white wall-tablets; and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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