Bars (Drinking establishments) -- England; England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England; Taverns (Inns) -- England
Let no unwary casual visitor, even to-day, imagine that all rooms except
the bedchambers of an inn in a country town are open to him. The
commercial room is a private apartment reserved for privileged
representatives of business concerns. A ritual has grown up which is
strictly observed by those whose right it is to make use of its many
conveniences. Notice the formality of greeting which a late comer extends
to the president of the table at the one o’clock dinner. “Mr. President,
may I be permitted to join you?” or “Mr. President, may I have the honour
of joining this company?” “With pleasure, sir.” The head of the table
invites the company to join him at wine. “Well, gentlemen, what do you
say to a bottle of sherry to begin with?” And later on--“Now gentlemen,
suppose we have a bottle of port.” Here is indicated a spaciousness of
life, a dignity and ease which the rapid pushful customs of to-day are
hustling into the past. But although the long wine dinners in the
commercial room, where every traveller was considered good for at least a
pint, are almost over, the ceremonial is still to a great extent kept up.
At one time not so long ago, a diner paid for his share of the wine
consumed whether he drank it or not; but the spread of teetotalism, the
establishment of Temperance Hotels and the gradual curtailment of the time
spent on dinner, as well as the keen competition which compelled every man
on the road to make as much of the afternoon as he did of the morning, led
to a freer personal liberty in the consumption of and payment for liquor.
Nowadays, a commercial traveller orders and pays for what he likes. There
is a generally understood rule that the traveller longest in the hotel
shall officiate as president, and should an entirely fresh set of arrivals
enter the commercial room at dinner-time, the first to come in takes the
head of the table as president, or chairman, as he is more commonly
called to-day. The custom of toasting the Sovereign at dinner, at one time
common, has now fallen into disuse. In places where the Sunday commercial
dinner is still an institution--return tickets on the railways at a single
fare, and express trains have largely done away with it--the old time
formalities are still kept up, for Sunday is a day which admits of plenty
of leisure and opportunity for ceremonial. Grace used to be pronounced by
the president, and a story goes that on one occasion--perchance on many
subsequent occasions--at a suggestion from one of the diners that Mr.
President should “now say grace,” the head of the table arose and
inquired, “Is there a clergyman present? No? Thank God,” and resumed his
seat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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