Country life -- England; England -- Social life and customs; Gentry -- England
That there may be more picturesqueness in an old German, Italian,
and French town may be admitted, but it is of a more salient,
obtrusive character than that which exists in our old county towns.
The continental architects aimed at bold effects. I do not say that
they were wrong. They achieved great success. Our architects built
what was wanted, in a quiet, undemonstrative manner, and left effect
to chance, and chance gave what they did not seek. The charms of an
old English county town do not force themselves on our notice, are
missed altogether by the hasty visitor; they have to be found out, they
come by surprises, they depend on certain lights and plays of shadow,
on the bursting into leaf of certain trees, on the setting up of
certain hucksters' stalls. That a great deal of their picturesqueness
is passing away is, alas! only too true. The tradesmen want huge
window spaces for the display of their goods, so away is knocked the
quaint old frontage of the house, and is replaced by something that
can be sustained on iron supports between wide sheets of plate-glass.
The suburbs are being made hideous with rows of model cottages, all
precisely alike, roofed with blue slate. Nevertheless a great deal
remains, and it is fortunately now something like a fashion to give
us Queen Anne (so-called) gables in the streets, which at all events
afford a pretty broken sky-line, and a play of light and shade on the
frontage.
Then how different are the outskirts of a foreign town to an English
country town. In Italy there are miles of lanes between high stone
walls, over which indeed lemons show their glorious fruit and blaze in
the sun; nevertheless, the sorry fact remains, that for as far as one
cares to walk there is no prospect save by favour through a gate.
At Florence, for instance, it is wall, wall, on the right hand and on
the left, all the way to Fiesole; and to the south, beyond S. Miniato,
up and down the hills, wall, wall, on the right hand and on the left.
At Genoa the city is engirded with hills, indeed the town lies in a
crater, broken down to the west to the sea. Climb near two thousand
feet to the encircling fortresses, and you go between wall, wall, all
the way. Escape along the sea to Sampierdarema on one side, on the
other to St. Fruttuoso, and it is a way between wall and house, house
and wall. And a French town, or a German town, or a Belgian town,
starts up suddenly out of bare fields, without trees, without hedges,
with a suburb of tall, hideous, stuccoed, badly-built houses, all
precisely alike and equally ugly. There are no cottages. Come back
to England, and at once you discover that the cottage is that which
gives charm to the approach of a town, it is the moss, the lichen that
adheres to the wall, a softening, beautiful feature in itself. Then
there are our hedges and hedgerow trees, and how different from the
stiff avenues of poplar, and the boulevards of set planes, exactly ten
paces apart.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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