Old Friends at Cambridge and ElsewhereClark, John Willis
History
Old Friends at Cambridge and Elsewhere
Clark, John Willis
University of Cambridge -- History
He got to Gaza on July 13, and on July 15 plunged into the Desert. Here
Professor Palmer disappears, and we have instead a Syrian officer,
dressed in Mohammedan costume, known as the Sheikh Abdullah, the name
which had been given to him by the Arabs on his former journey. The
expedition occupied just a fortnight, for Suez was reached on August 1.
He was fortunately able to keep a brief journal, which he sent home by
post from Suez. This invaluable document, with two or three letters
written to friends, and a formal Report addressed from Suez to the
Government, but not yet printed, enables us to ascertain what he did,
and what sufferings and dangers he endured in the accomplishment of it.
It was the middle of the summer, and apparently an unusually hot and
stormy summer, for we read of even the natives being overcome by the
heat, wind, and dust. His business admitted of no delay; whether well or
ill, he must ride forward, in the full glare of the sun, with the
thermometer ‘at 110 in the shade in the mountains, and in the plains
about twice that’; and yet never show, by the slightest hint, that he
was either overcome by the physical exertion, or alarmed at the imminent
peril which he ran at every moment. So well was the bodily frame
sustained by the brave heart within, that he could write cheerfully, nay
humorously, even before he had reached a place of safety. Here is an
extract from one of his letters, dated ‘Magharah, in the Desert of the
Tih, July 22’:
‘This country is not exactly what you would call, in a truthful spirit,
safe just now. I have had to dodge troops and Arabs, and Lord knows
what, and am thankful and somewhat surprised at the possession of a
whole skin....
‘I wish to remark that about the fifth consecutive hour (noon) of the
fifth consecutive day’s camel-ride, with a strong hot wind blowing the
sand in your face, camel-riding loses, as an amusement, the freshness of
one’s childhood’s experience at the Zoo....
‘I am now two days from Suez, and before the third sun sets shall be
either within reach of beer and baths, or be able to dispense altogether
with those luxuries for the future. The very equally balanced
probabilities lend a certain zest to the journey....
‘My man stole some melons from a patch near some water (if I may use the
expression), and I feel better for the crime. Still I am dried up, and
burnt, and thirsty, and bored.’
Let us now extract from the Journal a few passages bearing directly on
the main object of the journey. All of these, we ought to state are
fully corroborated by the subsequently written Report, and by incidental
allusions in the telegrams embodied in the Blue Book.
‘_July 15._—My sheikh has just come, and I have had a long and very
satisfactory talk with him. I think the authorities will be very pleased
with the report I shall have for them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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