At length we reached Smyrna, which is partly situated on level ground,
the harbour backed by a lofty hill. There is more trade here than in
any other place in the East. The climate, though hot, is very fine; but
the place is often shaken by earthquakes, which have at times caused
great destruction to lives and property. That dreadful scourge, also,
the plague, is a frequent visitor. The former may truly be said to be
beyond man's control; but the latter is, I am certain, brought about
very much by the dirty habits of the people, and their ill-ventilated
and ill-drained habitations.
In the neighbourhood of Smyrna grow great quantities of figs, which are
dried and packed in boxes and baskets. They formed part of our cargo
home. We had likewise raisins and other dried fruits, and preserves,
and rich silks and embroideries. None of the seamen were allowed to go
on shore, for Christians were very likely to get insulted, if not
ill-treated, by the Turks. In those days they used to look upon all
Christians as dogs, and to behave towards them as such. Besides Turks,
there were a great number of Jews and Greeks, and people from every part
of the East, living at Smyrna; but all had to submit to the caprices and
ignorance of the first.
I was not sorry when we once more made sail, with the ship's head to the
westward. We had a somewhat tedious passage down the Mediterranean,
having frequent baffling or light winds. At times of the year gales,
however, blow with great fury in that sea, though they seldom last long.
Most to be dreaded are the sudden gales which, under the name of "white
squalls," have sent many a vessel, caught unprepared, to the bottom.
At last we reached Gibraltar again. The Captain inquired if anything
had been seen of the pirate which had attempted to surprise us with her
boats; but the brig of war had returned without hearing anything of her.
We remained but a day at the Rock. We took on board there the crew of
a ship which had foundered at sea, and had been brought in by a Greek
brig which had picked them up, and, for a wonder, had not murdered them.
However, as they were nearly naked, and had promised the Greeks a
reward if they arrived in safety, more was to be got by keeping them
alive than by killing them. We were thus very strongly manned.
Foul winds and a heavy gale made us stand a good way to the westward on
our passage home, after getting clear of the Gut. Soon after sunrise
one morning a sail was reported away to windward, running down towards
us, the wind being about on her quarter. As she approached with all
sail set, she appeared to be sailing very wildly; that is to say,
instead of keeping a steady, straight course, her head went now on one
side, now on the other, as if a drunken man was at the helm. The
captain and mates were looking at her through their glasses.
"She looks like an English craft, by the cut of her canvas," observed
Mr Gale.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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