Old Tavern Signs: An Excursion in the History of HospitalityEndell, Fritz August Gottfried
History
Old Tavern Signs: An Excursion in the History of Hospitality
Endell, Fritz August Gottfried
Inn signs; Taverns (Inns)
It was in a tavern in Varennes that the fate of Louis XVI was sealed.
Here the fugitive king was arrested and forced to go back to Paris to
pay with his blood the debt of sins which his ancestors had
accumulated. “Forty-eight years after the royal coach was stopped in
this town,” says Victor Hugo, “I saw hanging from an old iron bracket
the picture of Louis Philippe with the inscription: ‘Au grand
Monarque.’” Nowhere do we observe quicker changes than in governments
and tavern signs, remarks the German tramp-poet Seume; and Victor Hugo
indulges in similar reflections, passing in review the signs of the
last one hundred years from Louis XV to Bonaparte and Charles X:
“Louis XVI s’est peut-être arrêté au Grand Monarque, et s’est vu là
peint en enseigne, roi en peinture lui-même.--Pauvre ‘Grand
Monarque?’” he exclaims in pathetic pity. This supposition of Hugo’s,
however, is not correct, as we learn from Carlyle, who, scrutinizing
with the prophetic vision of a poet the darkness of the past,
possessed at the same time the exactness and sincerity of a true
historian and who has given us, based on a personal visit to the
locality, the following description of the nocturnal scene: “The
village of Varennes lies dark and slumberous, a most unlevel Village
of inverse saddle-shape, as men write. It sleeps; the rushing of the
River Aire singing lullaby to it. Nevertheless from the Golden Arm,
Bras d’or Tavern across that sloping Marketplace, there still comes
shine of social light....”
Even the American Revolution left its traces on the tavern signs of
the Yankeeland. The old Baptist pastor and Professor of Theology,
Galusha Anderson, who has given us, in his charming book, “When
Neighbors were Neighbors,” in his simple way a kind of social history
of the early United States, mentions signs that he saw in his youth
“where the English red-coats were represented flying before our
revolutionary forefathers.” And Washington Irving has given us, in his
“Rip Van Winkle,” a classical example of the political changes the
signboard had to undergo. When this curious dreamer and unhappy
husband, after many years of mysterious absence, came back to his
native village, nothing perhaps surprised him so much as to find on
the old tavern the strange words, “The Union Hotel, by Jonathan
Doolittle,” and to see even the good old sign strangely altered: “He
recognised on the sign, however, the ruby face of King George, under
which he had smoked so many a peaceful pipe; but even this was
singularly metamorphosed. The red coat was changed for one of blue and
buff, a sword was held instead of a sceptre, the head was decorated
with a cocked hat, and underneath was painted in large characters,
General Washington.” Thus he received from the signboard the necessary
instruction on the great changes that had taken place during his
absence, how his country had developed from an English Colony to a
free Republic.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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