What a difference between the _tables d'hote_ in Germany and in
Switzerland! I always prefer the _table d'hote_ when it is respectable,
for nothing is more unpleasant than remaining in a hotel shut up in your
own room; the latter may be more dignified and aristocratic, but it is
not the way to see the world; one might as well be in England, and,
indeed, had much better. A _table d'hote_ is a microcosm: you meet
there all nations, people of all professions--some idle, some busy
travelling on important matters, others travelling for amusement. You
are unfortunate if you do not fall in with one clever man at least, and
you are quite sure to meet with a fool, which is almost as amusing.
When I survey a _table d'hote_ I often think of the calenders who had
all come to spend the _Ramadhan_ at Bagdad, and their histories; and I
have thought that Grattan might make a very good series of Highways and
Byways if he could obtain the history of those who meet at this general
rendezvous. The _tables d'hote_ in Germany are excellent, properly
supplied, and very moderate. I cannot say so of those in Switzerland.
The fondness of the Swiss for money betrays itself in everything, and
instead of liberality at the _table d'hote_, we have meanness. The
dinner itself is dearer than in Germany, and not half so good; but what
is the most unexcusable part of our host's conduct is, that he half
serves his guests, as Sancho was served at Barataria; for instance, as
is usually the case, the viands are put on the table and then removed to
be carved; two ducks will make their appearance at one end, two chickens
at the other; are removed, and only one of each is cut up and handed
round, the others are sent away whole to be re-dressed for some great
man who dines in his own room. This has been constantly the case since
I have been here. It may be asked, why we do not remonstrate? In the
first place, I prefer watching my host's manoeuvres; and in the next,
although I might get my duck, my host would charge me the whole value of
it when he sent in his bill.
The French Ambassador could not have taken a better step to bring the
Swiss to their senses than threatening them with a blockade. It would
have been ruin to them. All the golden harvests would have been over,
their country would have been deserted, and their Ranz des Vaches would
have been listened to only by the cows. As the French minister
expected, the councils fumed and vapoured, the officers drew their
swords and flourished them, and then--very quietly pocketed the affront
that they might not be out of pocket. What a pity it is that a nation
so brave and with so many good sterling qualities, should be, as it
would appear, so _innately_ mercenary! There never was a truer saying
than "Point d'argent, point de Suisse."
CHAPTER THIRTY SIX.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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